塞拉莱是阿曼南部 阿曼佐法尔地区的首府。它是苏丹国的第二大城市,也是苏丹卡布斯(Sultan Qaboos)的出生地。对于大多数游客来说,塞拉莱是通往阿曼最南端的佐法尔省的门户——一个历史上独立、文化和生态独特的地区。
了解
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作为传统的地区首府,这座城市的历史可以追溯到两千年前,当时,凭借其战略位置,它成为乳香和丝绸贸易路线上一个重要的停靠点。19世纪,该地区被并入马斯喀特和阿曼苏丹国,塞拉莱从1932年起担任该国首都,直到1970年苏丹卡布斯继位,他将首都迁至马斯喀特。塞拉莱是苏丹1940年的出生地,他的母亲是佐法尔地区一个杰出的杰巴利部落的成员;时至今日,苏丹仍与这座城市保持着密切的联系。
如今,塞拉莱仍然因乳香的种植和贸易而闻名(尽管规模已缩小),并以其夏季的 khareef(季风)和一年一度的 塞拉莱节而闻名,届时游客蜂拥而至,以逃离阿拉伯半岛其他地区炙热的温度。由于城外住宿和餐饮场所稀少,它成为游客一年中任何时候探索周边地区的一个有用且有趣的基地。
阅读
[]- Maria Dekeersmaeker,《塞拉莱、佐法尔的DNA:旅游指南》。这本书由一位常驻塞拉莱的比利时记者撰写,是一份主题化的事实和历史宝库。
气候
[]大多数游客在七月和八月来到塞拉莱,享受一年一度的季风,届时附近的干河都会充满水源。偶尔街道会发生洪涝,海流过于湍急,不适合游泳或潜水。九月雨季过后,游客离开,但植被依然是绿色的,酒店价格开始下降。
潜水仅在旱季(十月至次年五月)期间可行,这也是观鸟的最佳时间。五月,尤其是六月,是一年中最热的月份,湿度稳步增加,直到六月底或七月初的雨水再次带来缓解。
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抵达
[]乘飞机
[]- 阿曼航空. 每天至少有三班从 马斯喀特飞往塞拉莱的航班,飞行时间为1小时30分钟。每周六运营从 迪拜直飞的国际航班,飞行时间约2小时,周四和周六还有飞往 吉达的航班,飞行时间为2小时50分钟。
- Air Arabia. 每周日、周一、周三、周四从 沙迦起飞,飞行时间为1小时45分钟。
- 卡塔尔航空. 每天运营三班从 多哈直飞的航班,飞行时间为2小时10分钟。
请注意,机场的出租车费用是普通出租车费用的10到20倍。
乘汽车
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从马斯喀特开车到塞拉莱大约需要12小时,这可能是一次美妙而难忘的经历,也可能是一次非常不舒服的经历,这取决于您是什么类型的旅行者。前5个小时的风景非常优美,您可以经过Rusayl、尼兹瓦和其他小城镇。然而,剩下的路程大部分是荒凉的沙漠和油田,沿途较大的定居点只有Haima和在塞拉莱前一小时的图姆赖特。
夜间驾驶通常比白天在炎热中驾驶要好(晚上到达塞拉莱是必须的,因为从高海拔的入口处看到的城市灯光非常迷人)。注意路上的流沙。沿途有几个停靠点供您用餐、饮水、抽烟或方便——您应该抓住每一个机会停下来,因为接下来的很长一段路可能就没有了。截至2019年,许多加油站不接受信用卡,所以您应该备好现金。路上的住宿条件不好;请计划好您的行程,以免需要在路上过夜。
乘巴士
[]- ONTC巴士站 (新市集/中央市场旁), ☏ +968 23 292773, 传真: +968 23 202721, info@ontcoman.com. 阿曼国家运输公司每天三班往返马斯喀特Ruwi车站的巴士,行程耗时12小时。 6阿曼里亚尔(单程),11阿曼里亚尔(往返).

马特兰贸易公司也提供往返马斯喀特的巴士服务,票价相同。
- 马特兰贸易公司, As Salam St, ☏ +968 23 211299.
- 宾·卡西姆运输公司, ☏ +968 23 291786.
[]
[]至少有一家马斯喀特的运营商可以包船到塞拉莱。
游轮定期停靠在商业 塞拉莱港,位于城市西部。班车会将游客从船上运送到港口入口,也有出租车可供选择。游客只需携带游轮登船证和旅游签证即可。
四处逛逛
[]步行
[]塞拉莱的部分地区可以步行探索,因为大多数景点都彼此靠近。然而,在一年中较热的时候,步行可能不是最佳选择。
打车
[]这里运营着通常没有计价器但需要议价的阿曼出租车。上车前请议定价格。2021年,市内的一次行程约为1阿曼里亚尔。大多数情况下,普通出租车的价格比叫车应用程序Otaxi便宜,但该应用程序可用于估算价格。
乘汽车
[]如果您租车,2WD汽车足以游览塞拉莱市内的大部分景点。然而,在塞拉莱以外,许多旅游景点都位于公路之外,建议租用SUV,尤其是在季风季节,因为路面湿滑。如果您计划在旺季期间游览,请提前预订您的车辆,因为租赁公司经常缺车。
看
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老城区位于海滨的哈法(Al Haffa)地区。
- 阿尔·巴利德考古公园, As Sultan Qaboos St, ☏ +968 23 303577, incense@omantel.net.om. 周六至周三 9:00-14:00,16:00-20:00;周四至周五 16:00-20:00. 这是一个 联合国教科文组织世界遗产,这些广阔的遗址曾经是12世纪的扎法尔贸易港,马可·波罗于1285年到访。 2阿曼里亚尔(仅接受信用卡,包含乳香博物馆门票).
- 乳香之地博物馆, As Sultan Qaboos St (位于阿尔·巴利德考古公园内), ☏ +968 23 303577. 周六至周三 8:00-14:00,16:00-20:00;周四至周五 16:00-20:00. 这座优秀的博物馆展示了港口和该地区历史的展品。 包含在阿尔·巴利德门票中.

- 塞拉莱博物馆 (位于塞拉莱文化中心内). 周六至周三 8:00-14:00. 该博物馆收藏了各种各样的展品,其中有关于地区地质和历史的展区。还有 Wilfred Thesiger 照片的永久展览。 免费.

- 纳达堡(钟楼) (Burj al-Nadha, Clocktower). 这座钟楼虽然不是摩天大楼,但却是塞拉莱的标志,出现在佐法尔省的徽章上。夜晚的灯光秀让这座塔看起来非常迷人。

- 纳比·乌姆兰墓 (Tomb of Nabi Imran), Al Matar St (Lulu Hypermarket旁边). Umran (Imran)是一位当地的阿拉伯先知,一些人认为他是圣母玛利亚的父亲,另一些人则认为他是摩西的父亲。石棺长33米。参观者进入前应脱鞋,女性应用头巾遮盖头部。 免费,欢迎小费.

- 苏丹卡布斯大清真寺, 23 July St and An Nahdah St. 周六至周四 8:00-11:00(非穆斯林). 这座清真寺建于2009年,可容纳14000人。要求着装保守;女性必须遮盖脚踝、手腕和头发。

- 苏丹卡布斯宫, Al Bahri St. 苏丹卡布斯出生在一座位于此地的要塞,现在这里是现代宫殿的所在地。不对公众开放,但游客可以从外面拍照。

- 传统佐法尔民居, Al Bahri St (沿海岸). 想看一些更古老的也门风格建筑,可以沿着海滩向东开车到Al Bahri街。

- 先知萨利赫骆驼的脚印, A Daqah St. 一座供奉巨大骆驼脚印的圣地,印在基岩上。据《古兰经》记载,这只骆驼据说是从附近的山脉中以奇迹的形式出现的,但三天后被拒绝承认先知萨利赫的不信者杀死。作为惩罚,据说一次严重的地震摧毁了整座城市及其居民。与其他宗教场所一样,请游客脱鞋,女性应遮盖头发。 免费.

- 枪械集市, As Sultan Qaboos St. 一个小型非正式露天市场,商贩出售各种武器,从古董步枪到传统刀具和匕首。清晨是最好的时间。

活动
[]


- 塞拉莱旅游节 (塞拉莱节/季风节). 七月至八月. 每年季风期间举行的节日,通过美食、音乐和娱乐活动来庆祝佐法尔的文化和传统。
- 塞拉莱峡湾 (As Sultan Qaboos St and Al Khawr St). 十一月至四月. 热衷于观鸟的游客可以在城市内找到许多种类的鸟类,因为这个潟湖以吸引火烈鸟、鱼鹰和许多候鸟而闻名。请带上您的望远镜。 免费.

潜水
[]- Extra Divers Salalah (在皇冠假日度假村内), ☏ +968 92 873560, salalah@extradivers.info. 16:00-18:00. 组织潜水和浮潜的导游团,并提供全套PADI课程。他们的大部分潜水活动都在米尔巴特(Mirbat)之外进行,他们在那里也设有潜水中心。该中心在季风期间从五月底到十月一日关闭。
- SubAqua潜水中心 (在希尔顿酒店内), ☏ +968 9989 4031, +968 9989 4032, salalah@subaqua-divecenter.com. 提供塞拉莱附近以及米尔巴特附近水域的全套潜水套餐。提供PADI课程。
骑马
[]- 佐法尔海浪马术俱乐部, Awqad St, ☏ +968 926 579 78, horsesalalah@gmail.com. 提供海滩骑行和日落骑行。有点难找,请使用谷歌地图或让他们来接您。
对话
[]大多数居民会说一些英语,但如果您懂一些阿拉伯语和马拉雅拉姆语,沟通会更容易。
购物
[]
乳香是塞拉莱必买的纪念品,只有不购物的游客才不会被推荐购买。乳香有几种不同的等级,以颜色区分,最浅的被认为是最高品质且最昂贵的。当地佐法尔粘土手工制作的香炉也是不错的购买品。没药也相对容易找到,以及全国各地的各种阿曼香水。您还可以购买阿曼传统匕首——khanjar。
- 手工艺品集市, Tatawur St and Al Marqaz At Tijari St (KFC附近). 周六至周四 9:00-13:00,16:00-22:00;周五 16:00-22:00. 购买传统手工艺品的绝佳去处。

- 哈法集市 (سوق الحافة), As Sultan Qaboos St. 08:00-00:00. 哈法集市(市场)是购买乳香、香炉以及各种收藏品(包括手工艺品和纪念品)的最佳场所。需要讨价还价,或者找当地人陪同,以确保购买到正品。可以使用阿曼里亚尔、欧元或美元付款。 OMR.

- 新市集, 23 July St.

- 家庭书店, Al Matar St (in Assafa House). Has books in English and Arabic, and a good selection of maps.

- Goal Sports, As Salam St (opposite HSBC Bank), ☏ +968 23 296624. Has outdoor sporting goods, including camping supplies.

杂货店
[]- Al Isteqrar Hypermarket, Al Fayha St. Groceries are on the ground floor, and a food court upstairs.

- Lulu Hypermarket, Ar Rubat St and An Nama St, ☏ +968 23 218400. Sa-Th 9AM-11PM; F 9AM-11PM, 4:30PM-11PM. A branch of the UAE chain. Good for picnic supplies or camping gear.

- Lulu Supermarket, 23 July St and Al Matar St, ☏ +968 23 288133. Sa-Th 8AM-11:45PM; F 8AM-11AM, 4:30PM-11:45PM. More centrally located than Lulu Hypermarket (see listing above), but with a much smaller deli and no camping gear.

- Spinney's, An Nahdah St (by the An Nahdah Roundabout). Small supermarket with international food.

餐饮
[]
如果您决定去萨拉拉市以外的地方(建议在阿曼各地旅行时这样做),请记住携带一些应急食物(推荐水果、果汁、三明治),因为市外餐馆很少。由于您可能在高速公路上找不到任何商店,请务必携带几瓶饮用水。不过,在前往穆格赛勒和潮汐喷泉的路上,有一个可爱的海滨咖啡馆。
经济型
[]- Al Kutaini Restaurant, 23 July St, ☏ +968 23 294179. Offers a wide range of continental dishes but specialize in Pakistani cuisine.
- Annapoorna Restaurant (Al-Saf Saf), Al Ferdows St (off of 23 July St). A traditional South Indian Restaurant serving only vegetarian food.

- Bin Ateeq, 23 July St (New Salalah), ☏ +968 23 292384, mail@binateeqoman.com. Daily 9AM-1AM. Part of a small chain of Omani restaurants, and a good place for Omani food.

- Bin Ateeq, 23 July St (Middle Salalah), mail@binateeqoman.com. Daily 9AM-1AM. A second branch of the popular Omani restaurant.

- Cascade Tandoori Restaurant, 23 July St (near Bank Dhofar), ☏ +968 23 288233. Daily 11AM-3:30PM, 6:30PM-12:30AM. Offers a large range of Indian dishes, particularly well-known for their vindaloo.

- Chinese Cascade, 23 July St, ☏ +968 23 289844. Chinese restaurant offering decent food. No buffet.

- Chopsticks, 23 July St, ☏ +968 24 783384. Indian-styled Chinese restaurant with decent food. No buffet.
- Hassan Bin Thabit Restaurant, 23 July St, ☏ +968 23 291010, info@hassanbinthabit.com. Daily 8AM-1AM. Serves Arabic, Chinese, European and Indian cuisines.

- KFC, Ar Rubat St. American fried chicken, sit-down restaurant and drive-through.

- Khareef Salalah Restaurant, Bldg No 54 (near Al Awqadayn Roundabout), ☏ +968 2321 0030, info@khareefsalalah.com. Daily 11AM-1AM. A unit of Hassan Bin Thabit Kitchens, with a varied international menu.

- 必胜客, As Salam St. Always an option for any Americans wanting a taste of home, delivery available.

中档
[]- Baalbeck Lebanese Restaurant, 23 July St (near the main market), ☏ +968 23 298834. A small family restaurant serving very good Lebanese food. Has excellent hummus, tum and shwarmas.

- Lebanese House Restaurant, Al Salaam St (Bait Lubnan), ☏ +968 23 212100. This restaurant offers good Lebanese food at a reasonable price (RO 10 for 3 people - starter & main incl. 1 drink each). Delivery available.

- Oasis Club, Port Rd (Raysut), ☏ +968 23 219248. 周六至周三 noon-3PM, 6PM-11PM; 周四至周五 noon-12:30AM. 提供价格非常合理的各种国际美食(酒店餐厅价格的一小部分,且质量更佳)。这家餐厅也持有酒类执照。提供外卖和送餐服务。

- Al Ajwa, 23 July St (near Bank Dhofar). 提供巴基斯坦和海得拉巴食物。没有自助餐。
奢侈
[]The restaurants in the Hilton, Crowne Plaza[死链], and Juweira Boutique hotels offer high-end dining services, with both à la carte and buffet options. For romantic dining, beach pavilions can be reserved at both the Hilton and Juweira Boutique.
饮品
[]
Alcohol for non-Muslim visitors is available at high end hotels like Oasis Club near the port, as well as at the bars in the Crowne Plaza, Hilton, and Juweira Boutique hotels.
For a refreshing drink, stop at any of the many roadside vendors selling fresh coconut. They will lop the top off a green coconut for you for 200-300 baizas.
住宿
[]During the annual khareef from July-September the population of Salalah balloons with visitors from elsewhere in Oman and the Persian Gulf, so if you plan to visit during this time it is essential to make reservations well in advance. During other times of year rooms are plentiful and rates are more reasonable.
经济型
[]- Al Hanaa Hotel, 23 July St (across from Lulu Hypermarket), ☏ +968 23 298305, +968 23 290274, alhanaa@omantel.net.om. Within walking distance of downtown.

中档
[]- Arabian Sea Villas, Dahariz Beach (near the Crown Plaza Resort), ☏ +968 23 235833, fax: +968 23 235830, seavllas@omantel.net.om. An Omani-Belgian enterprise, adjacent to the coconut groves. This is one of the best budget options in Salalah; rates include breakfast and wifi (available in the breakfast/coffee room). RO 30-40/night.

- Dhofar Hotel, Al Matar St (near Lulu Hypermarket), ☏ +968 23 292300, fax: +968 23 294358, dhfhotel@omantel.net.om. The hotel offers basic accommodation at very affordable prices. Service is very friendly and hotel is reasonably clean. €80/double.

- Haffah House, Al Matar and Ar Robat Sts, ☏ +968 2329 5444, reservations.salalah@shanfarihotels.com. Old rooms, basic but decent. Very close to the airport and in the centre of the city so it's easy to reach any place you want to get to, reasonable swimming pool, gym and tennis courts. Banking and rent a car services are available in the same building.

- Hamdan Plaza Hotel, Al Wadi St (across from Lulu Hypermarket), ☏ +968 23 211025. Free breakfast with wi-fi.

奢侈
[]- Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah, Dahreej, ☏ +968 23 235333. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. A better alternative for luxury accommodation as the property is much larger than the Hilton and more importantly it is close to the city centre. RO 72+/night.

- Hilton Salalah, As Sultan Qaboos St, ☏ +968 23 211234, fax: +968 23 210084. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. A popular choice for European visitors. It is roughly 12 km outside the city and runs a daily shuttle service to and from the Gold Souq. However, the hotel cannot really be recommended as the service is appalling and a general sense of "the inmates running the asylum" pervades. RO 59+/night.

- Juweira Boutique Hotel, Taqa Rd (Marina Town), ☏ +968 23 239600, fax: +968 23 239622. From Juweira you can get a clear view of the artificial 'Juweira Island' which is spectacularly illuminated during night. There are many wonderful cafes, lounges and restaurants in Juweira. There is also a fashion boutique and a children's play area. RO 65+/night.

- Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara, Al Mansurah Street (Al Baleed), ☏ +968 2322 8222, albaleedsalalah@anantara.com. A beach resort providing a myriad of activities including tennis, volleyball, and badminton courts, petanque, and beach football. Doubles OR 132+.

连接
[]Mobile coverage using Oman's providers is close to flawless, but roaming can sometimes be slow. There are several internet cafes around town, but speeds are inconsistent. Prices vary, but are usually cheap. You can also buy a tourist SIM card from any of the two main phone companies.
注意安全
[]Salalah is a very safe place. However, the Salalah (Arab) way of driving might need some getting used to for non-Arabs.
Don't go swimming in the sea or permit toddlers/children to wander off at beaches. The sea has very strong ocean currents and the seabed has a steep drop off, making it very unsafe for swimmers, experienced or beginner.
应对
[]- Remember to carry your passport and visa papers with you wherever you go, at least photocopies, as you can expect local police or military patrols to check on you when you least expect them to show up, even if you are within city limits (a routine procedure to check for illegal workers and immigrants).
- It's advisable for women to bring conservative clothing, especially if travelling outside the city. A general rule is to keep shoulders and knees covered. Western swimwear is acceptable on private hotel beaches, but not on public beaches where one-piece suits, or even t-shirts and swimming shorts, are preferable. Keep a sarong handy.
- Bring plenty of water and sunblock if travelling outside the city.
下一站
[]
北
[]- Job's Tomb (An-Nabi Ayyub) (30km northwest of Salalah off of Atin Rd). Believed by many to be the tomb of the biblical figure Job, on a hilltop overlooking Salalah. There is a small restaurant nearby with wonderful views. 500 bzs.

- Ayn Razat (Ain Razat). 周四至周五,雨季期间每日开放. Freshwater springs surrounded by gated rose gardens, with several pools and caves nearby. Swimming is not permitted because of the presence of schistosomiasis (bilharzia); toilets available.

东
[]Taqah coastal city is 35km away on Highway 49, and Mirbat also on the coast is an hour's drive.
西
[]To the west is Mughsayl with its famous blowholes, and some dramatic coastline (see Itineraries in Dhofar).
