赫瓦尔是克罗地亚海岸外的一座岛屿,人口约11,000人(2011年)。雄伟的防御工事耸立在灰石与橙色层叠屋顶的流淌混合体之上。长久以来入侵者留下的城墙遗迹蜿蜒而下,直至宽阔的滨海大道,该大道边缘是碧蓝的大海和古朴的渔港。大理石街道展露出达尔马提亚最大的广场之一、珍贵的圣斯蒂芬大教堂以及文艺复兴时期的剧院。
了解
[]赫瓦尔岛,尤其是 赫瓦尔镇以及邻近的历史名城 斯塔里格勒 是亚得里亚海最受欢迎的旅游目的地之一。
赫瓦尔位于碧绿清澈的海边,被连绵的翠绿山丘环抱,由许多古老的石头建造而成。日落时分,从赫瓦尔镇广场沿着古老的巷道漫步,会通往另一条小巷,这条小巷高高地坐落在其他巷道的上方,极其迷人,不容错过。
赫瓦尔镇可能是岛上最迷人的城镇,但克罗地亚最古老的城市——斯塔里格勒,以及耶尔萨,还有点缀海岸或 nestled 在葱郁内陆的众多小村庄,都非常值得一游。
斯塔里格勒平原区域是公元前4世纪定居在该岛的古希腊殖民者农业发展的独特范例。因此,该区域被列入世界遗产名录。
在旅游旺季(5月至9月),这里会非常热闹,尤其是在8月,届时会有大量的意大利游客。赫瓦尔曾经相对便宜,没有完善的旅游基础设施,吸引了许多年轻人。然而,随着大型五星级酒店的兴建以及克罗地亚生活水平的提高,这种情况正在改变。
抵达
[]- 渡轮公司Jadrolinija经营汽车渡轮(约2小时),停靠在斯塔里格勒附近,或者搭乘Krilo Luka高速渡轮(水翼船)(约1小时)从斯普利特前往赫瓦尔市。所有渡轮公司、时刻表、价格、船票和信息都可以在网上查询,网址为 GetByFerry.com[链接已失效]。巴士在岛内运行,往返于渡轮码头和岛内各处(2009年4月,至斯塔里格勒 2欧元,至赫瓦尔市 3.50欧元)。由于巴士座位有限,晚到的乘客经常需要在整个行程中站着。
- Jadrolinija 也提供从赫瓦尔镇到韦拉卢卡(科尔丘拉)以及拉斯特沃岛的航线,以及从赫瓦尔东部的苏丘拉伊到(大陆)德尔韦尼克的航线。
- Krilo Luka 经营从赫瓦尔镇到斯普利特的高速渡轮。它还提供从赫瓦尔镇到维斯岛、米尔纳(布拉奇岛)、科尔丘拉、姆列特岛以及沿海城市杜布罗夫尼克的航线。汽车渡轮最频繁(每天约三班,旺季(5月至9月)更多),停靠在斯塔里格勒。高速渡轮班次较少,但也往返于赫瓦尔镇。还有前往其他目的地,特别是意大利的渡轮。
四处逛逛
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巴士在斯塔里格勒迎接汽车渡轮,并前往赫瓦尔镇等目的地。不要乘坐渡轮码头的出租车,它们是敲诈。赫瓦尔岛上的巴士由Cazmatrans运营[链接已失效]车票可以向司机购买(现金)。时刻表随季节变化。
如果您想探索岛上其他地方,可以轻松租用汽车,每天约47欧元。租赁公司有最低租期一天(不提供按小时租赁)。您还可以租用摩托车或踏板车,每天约33.50欧元。踏板车和摩托车提供按小时计费。赫瓦尔岛上的道路可能陡峭且多弯,没有护栏,所以请小心,尤其是在骑乘一辆旧的、已经行驶了数万公里的租用摩托车时。
岛上只有2个加油站:一个在赫瓦尔镇,另一个在耶尔萨附近。从塞库拉伊到岛上最近的加油站约50公里。
有便捷的水上出租车[链接已失效],可以从斯塔里格勒港直接载您到渡轮码头,前往(费用2欧元)。
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赫瓦尔(城市)及其周边
[]- 赫瓦尔的镇广场是克罗地亚最美丽、最大的广场之一。广场占地4500平方米,城镇围绕着这个广场发展,始于13世纪,然后向南扩展到15世纪。山顶上还有一座堡垒,城墙环绕着城市的部分区域。通往堡垒的路虽然是上坡,但很容易走。值得徒步攀登,因为在那里可以欣赏到港口和周边地区的壮丽景色。别忘了带上相机。堡垒中间有一个小餐馆,您可以在那里购买饮料和小吃。


- 圣斯蒂芬大教堂(Trg Sveti Stjepana)占据了镇广场的一端,建于16世纪和17世纪。这座大教堂的钟楼有四层高,每一层都比上一层更加精美。大教堂建在一座被土耳其人摧毁的现有教堂之上。这座老教堂的部分建筑可以在教堂内部看到,但大部分内部结构已被重建。
- 在赫瓦尔镇附近的格拉普切瓦洞穴(Grapčeva špilja)新石器时代考古遗址出土了带有红、黄、棕、白色螺旋纹饰的独特陶瓷。由于这种装饰和雕刻方法仅在赫瓦尔岛发现,考古学家将这种新石器时代艺术命名为“hvarska kultura”(赫瓦尔文化)。赫瓦尔岛还有制作蕾丝的传统,但使用的是龙舌兰叶的纤维。赫瓦尔本笃会修道院的修女们是这种独特工艺的大师。
- 教堂旁边的主教宝库收藏有银器、刺绣的弥撒长袍、众多的圣母像、可追溯至13世纪的圣像以及一座精雕细琢的石棺。
胡马茨
[] 胡马茨, Humac, Jelsa (about 1 km off the main street (D116) across the island, ca. 10 km east of Jelsa).
胡马茨是一个古老、如今大部分无人居住的村庄,历史可追溯至几个世纪前。这里有由石头建造的简朴房屋,有些地基可追溯到石器时代早期。房屋之间和周围是典型的农田(包括薰衣草和葡萄),有些仍在耕种,有些似乎已被遗弃。它是当地建筑和农业历史的典范。在过去几个世纪里,人们搬到别处居住,而村庄仍被用于农业和饲养牲畜。
村庄的部分地区正在修复,似乎有一个小型博物馆,陈列着民族志文物。
村庄海拔350米,还享有俯瞰农田和大海的壮丽景色。
看
- 许多石头房屋和废墟
- 圣约翰和圣保罗教堂
- 格拉普切瓦洞穴, Humac, Jelsa (drive to Humac and take the designated food path to the cave entrance). entrance only allowed with a guided tour, available only on certain days. a typical Dalmatian cave with stalactites and stalagmites, where archeological findings, especially engraved and colored ceramics, have been made and prove neolithic settlement of the island

活动
[]- 乘坐水上出租车(每半小时或左右一班),或租用船只(5马力,每天约47欧元),即可自行探索帕克莱尼群岛。您可以在赫瓦尔镇主广场直接租船。这些岛屿非常近,有僻静的白沙滩、徒步小径和松树林等待您。带上野餐或一瓶酒。船可以锚泊在岛屿周围的任何地方,或系在岩石上。
- 租一辆踏板车,每天33.50欧元,环游岛屿。有很多景点和有趣的停留点。
- 攀登西班牙堡垒(Španjola Fortress)。欣赏赫瓦尔镇和帕克莱尼群岛的壮丽景色,并用手机接收意大利广播电台或收听当地的Megamix Radio Hvar广播电台。
- 从杜博维察沿着赫瓦尔的南海岸悬崖徒步2小时,前往Zlatan Otok酒庄享用午餐、游泳,然后乘船返回赫瓦尔镇。
- 赫瓦尔耶尔萨冒险公园, Jelsa Hvar (Near Hotel Fontana Jelsa), ☏ +385 98 1723932, adventure.park.hvar.jelsa@gmail.com. Offers paintball, splatmaster, cageball, beach volleyball, badminton, human table football, archery, bocce, giant boxing.
购物
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赫瓦尔以其薰衣草闻名,夏季您可以看到大片区域的薰衣草盛开。别忘了购买成束的薰衣草或装在精美彩绘玻璃瓶中的薰衣草精油,其持久的香气将提醒您在赫瓦尔岛度过的美好时光。
- 赫瓦尔制造, Pjaca (at the main square), ☏ +385 21 718 438. 09:00 - 00:00. Contemporary art and craft gallery presenting local art as well as artist in residence concept. Moderate prices and high aesthetic standards, unique and interested. Open all year.
餐饮
[]当地烤鱿鱼配橄榄油非常美味,黄瓜沙拉也很棒。
- 格斯霍斯诺瓦克, Jurja Novaka 9.
赫瓦尔镇
[]帕克莱尼群岛
[]- Tonci, Sveti Klement, Vlaka, ☏ +385 98 727 186, perinam@yahoo.com. Beautiful little restaurant in a garden of fig and mandarin trees. They make their own wine from the vineyards next to the restaurants, the fish they catch in the nearby water. If you order a desert of fresh figs, they will pluck them from the trees around you. €13.50.
耶尔萨及其周边
[] Konoba Humac, Humac, Jelsa, ☏ +385 91 523 9463. closed on Sundays. In between of traditional houses and fields, this restaurant takes you out into a scenic and romantic atmosphere (there is no connection to running water and the electricity grid). You will have a straightforward menu of traditionally prepared dishes, many of them made in an old style oven. Good meat and also some vegetarian options. Some dishes need to be booked in advance. Certainly worth a visit, although somewhat off the main paths. Only reachable via phone (no messages or emails).
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饮品
[]- Carpe Diem, At the end of the riva (at the end of the riva on the right side). It's all big cushions, sofas, hammocks and mood lighting. Drinks leave something to be desired. It's a real shame, because it's the perfect spot to drink cocktails, but they make them with flavoured syrups instead of fresh fruit, and they all taste like bubble-gum. The DJs are usually on the international circuit and the energy is high.
- Prsuta Tri (on the narrow street just behind the main square), ☏ +385 98 9696193, vimales@inet.hr. Good vine bar, has cheese, olive, and prosciutto.
- Teraca, Placa (on the long terrace above the main square). Friendly small bar with an amazing view over the square and harbour. €3.50 beers, drinks for €2.50.
住宿
[]每次渡轮抵达时,都会有一群人提供私人住宿。
- Apartmani Grgičević (robigrg@gmail.com), Vitarnja, Jelsa, ☏ +385 977 942 942. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Welcoming house in Jelsa, 30m from the sea, low prices. 5 apartments (2+1, 4+2, 4+3 persons), ground or first floor. Nice mediterranean garden, balcony or terrace for guests, WiFi, grill, pets welcome. from €12.

- Anna, Buzolic Tonci & Anna Glavica bb, ☏ +385 917303517, anna.buzolic@hotmail.com. Check-out: 10:00. Friendly and clean apartment just up the steps from the main square. €27 per person.
- Apartments and Pension, ☏ +385 21 773 250, apartmentslavic@yahoo.com. Two air-con double room apartments, one air-con studio-apartment, and two rooms. €35 (studio apartment).
- Apartments Bibić, ☏ +385 21 741 683, hvar.cro@gmail.com. Ten minutes walk from center of town and 20 meters from the sea.
- Apartments Komazin, ☏ +385 91 601 9712, apartmani.komazin@gmail.com. Nice seaview apartments for 2, 3, 4 and 5 persons.
- Aparthotel Pharia, ☏ +385 21 735 393, info@orvas-hotels.com.
- Guesthouse Huljic, Jelsa bb, ☏ +385 91 1543072, veselka@hvar-4u.com. Great location in very centre of Jelsa on Hvar island. Nice clean rooms with private bathrooms.
- Kuca Sofia, ☏ +385 911 18 12 74. Dates back more than 400 years and is traditionally constructed from local stone. It is a spacious two floor apartment in quiet surroundings, located in the historic centre of Hvar Town.
- Apartment Modric (Stone house Modric), Donja banda b.b. (Sucuraj), ☏ +385 98 921 04 32, apartment-modric@sucuraj.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Accommodation for 4-5 persons in old stone completely renovated house, 20m from sea. The available apartment takes the first floor and the attic; 70m2 large. €60-90/day per apartment.
- Apartments Curin, Antica Ćurin, Sv. Katarina bb, Hvar Town, ☏ +385 21 741-676, emilio.curin@st.t-com.hr. Check-out: 14:00. Very clean and nice apartments with bathrooms and balconies. The top floor balcony has an amazing view over Hvar and the Pakleni Islands. €30.
- Aprtments Hackl, ☏ +385 21 741514, vakejsn@gmail.com. Nice quiet place.
- Luka's Lodge (call Luka for a pickup), ☏ +385 917 347 230. Check-out: 11:00. Nice location away from the noise, but within easy walking distance of beaches, restaurants, main promenade. €16 per night.

- Villa Pepi (Bodlovic), Ivana Vucetica 16 (South along coast line), ☏ +385 21 741 183. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Apartments for 2 to 4 persons, direct sea view, 20 m from sea. 20-35 e.

- Apartments Blaskovic (in the vicinity of the beach), ☏ +385 98 265 434. Nice view. Has a seawater pool and fitness room.
下一站
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风景优美、未经破坏且受欢迎的裸体主义者岛屿 Jerolim 和 Stipanska 可以从赫瓦尔镇广场乘坐出租车船前往。截至2010年8月,岛上的主要海滩主要由穿着衣服的沐浴者(占岛屿游客的大多数)使用,而小型的岩石海湾则由穿着衣服和裸体主义者混合使用。
