Valles Pasiegos 是位于坎塔布里亚的一个乡村地区,位于桑坦德以南,与邻近的布尔戈斯以北。这是一个崎岖的地区,充满了翠绿的山谷、风景如画的村庄和壮丽的山脉。由于其山地地理,该地区及其居民 Pasiegos 与坎塔布里亚邻近地区在某种程度上是隔绝的。该地区由帕斯河 (Pas) 和米耶拉河 (Miera) 之间的山谷组成。对于对远足、自然风光和壮丽山景感兴趣的旅行者来说,这里可以进行一次有趣的当日或周末旅行。
了解
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由于历史上的隔绝,Pasiegos 人相当孤僻、内向,并且对外界保持警惕,尤其是在非常偏远的乡村地区。虽然其他西班牙人可能会觉得他们奇怪,甚至粗鲁,因为他们不开放健谈,但来自英语国家或北欧国家的游客不会觉得他们的行为不同寻常。
在大多数村庄,除了当地的酒吧/酒馆之外没有商店,这些地方更像杂货店而不是酒吧。你可以在这些地方购买牙膏、卫生纸、牛奶或面包等日常必需品,以及食物和饮料。
Pasiegos 人传统上是牧民,他们的乳制品质量在西班牙是无与伦比的。Pasiego 黄油、牛奶和奶酪的质量都非常高,它们是他们传统甜点的基础;sobaos(一种黄油蛋糕)和 leche frita(类似法式吐司)。
对话
[]这里英语不普遍。建议至少掌握一些基础的西班牙语才能方便交流。即使是西班牙语使用者也可能觉得当地方言难以理解,一些年长的居民说 Pasiego 方言(一种阿斯图里亚斯语方言)而非标准卡斯蒂利亚语。
城镇
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作为一个非常乡村的地区,大多数人居住在小村庄里,但是也有一些较大的城镇社区,在那里你可以找到超市、药店、商店甚至一些夜生活场所。
- Selaya/ Villacarriedo 是两个相邻的城镇,合起来形成一个较大的聚居区。这是卡里多河谷 (Carriedo valley) 中最大的城镇。这里是 Valles Pasiegos 的夜生活中心,因为青少年和年轻人会在周末来这里狂欢。你还可以参观 Alto de Caracol 驾驶路线,以及附近的 sobao 工厂。
- Puente Viesgo – home of some of the oldest human art in Europe in the caves of Monte Castillo. Three caves with original art from up to 150,000 years ago can be seen here in guided tours.
- Liérganes is not in the geographical area, but it is still often considered a "Pasiego" town. Historically the location of an important artillery foundry in the early modern period.
- Santa María de Cayón – is the most populous town due to the location of a large Nestlé factory in the municipality. Saron, its largest "neighborhood", is really a small town where most amenities can be found.
抵达
[]最好是乘汽车游览该地区,但也有公共交通
- ALSA 公司运营三条巴士线路,从桑坦德巴士站 (Santander Bus Station) 辐射到不同的山谷。
- 桑坦德-塞拉亚 (Santander-Selaya),经过中间的卡里多河谷 (Carriedo valley) 及其最大的城镇圣玛丽亚·德·卡永 (Santa Maria de Cayon)。
- 桑坦德-翁塔内达 (Santander-Ontaneda),经过西部的帕斯河谷 (Pas valley) 并服务于著名的旅游景点 Castillo 洞穴 (Cueva del Castillo)。
- 桑坦德-圣罗克 (Santander-San Roque),经过东部的米耶拉河谷 (Miera valley) 和利耶尔加内斯 (Liérganes) 镇。
- 其他较小的巴士线路连接村庄,但这些线路通常只在工作日运营,并在下午停止服务。
- 你也可以从桑坦德乘坐 Renfe 火车到利耶尔加内斯 (Liérganes),但该地区其余地方没有铁路服务。
看
[]虽然大多数活动都是户外活动,但该地区有 3 个博物馆
- 坎塔布里亚岩画艺术中心 (Centro de Arte Rupestre de Cantabria). A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008; this facility features an interpretive center and gift shop and access to 3 historic caves that have been used by humans since the last Ice Age 150,000 years ago, up to the medieval era. Unlike other prehistoric caves such as 阿尔塔米拉; you can see original cave art here and not modern reproductions. Guided tours must be booked in advance.

- Pasiego 村落民族志博物馆 (Ethnographic Museum of the Pasiego Villages). A small museum inside a typical Pasiego house showing traditional Pasiego crafts and explanations of local history and culture located in the mountain village of Vega de Pas.

- Joselin Sobao 博物馆 (Joselin Sobao Museum). Sobaos are a typical Pasiego dessert that are well known outside of Cantabria. They are a kind of sponge cake made with local dairy and in this factory, you can see a small museum displaying the history of this sweet and of dairy production in the region. Guided tours with tasting can be booked. The facility includes a large cafe & restaurant for visitors.

活动
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对于游客来说,一个典型的计划是选择一个小村庄,在附近的林地/山区徒步,然后回到村里的酒吧吃午餐或喝饮料。每个村庄至少有一个酒吧,大多数酒吧都提供食物,但在许多较小的酒吧,需要提前预订。该地区可以进行徒步、山地自行车、摩托车越野赛、全地形车驾驶,甚至山地/岩石攀登。
夏末,每个城镇和村庄都会庆祝其圣人的生日,举办名为“romeria”的盛大节日,持续一整天或整个周末。宁静的小村庄会一夜之间变成音乐节场地,有巨大的舞台、提供 DJ 的露天酒吧以及通常会演奏到凌晨 6 点的现场乐队。
餐饮
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该地区最典型的菜肴是“cocido montañés”,这是坎塔布里亚山区独有的。它起源于中世纪的永恒炖菜,是一种由豆类、羽衣甘蓝、香肠、黑布丁、猪排和猪脸肉制成的丰盛炖菜。乡村酒吧通常有特色菜,需要提前点菜;通常是烤山羊肉或烤羊肉,甚至更稀有的菜肴,如炖驴肉。除此之外,你仍然可以享用新鲜的海鲜和 rabas(炸鱿鱼圈),这是一种典型的酒吧小吃,适合与朋友分享。
一些值得注意的餐厅包括
- Las Piscinas, in Villacarriedo.

- Bar José, in Esles, ☏ +34 942555745.

- La Inesperada, in Abionzo.

- Posada La Semilla, in Santa María de Cayón.

- Restaurante Casa Augusto, in Alceda.

饮品
[]As the bar is the centre of village life in the valles, it is quite normal to stop in for a drink or two in the afternoon or early evenings. Most village bars close by 23:00 or midnight, while some stay open until 01:00. In Selaya and Saron, there are some bars and clubs open until the early hours of the morning.
The typical liquor in Cantabria is "orujo"; a strong spirit similar to grappa which is usually between 47-60% ABV. It is usually drunk slowly alongside a coffee after finishing a large, hearty meal. Some flavoured varieties are quite popular, including orujo infused with herbs, honey and cream. For the less courageous, vermouth is a popular aperitif taken with ice and orange peel. These are called a "marianito" and many bars have their own homemade vermouth, called "vermut de solera".
Almost every village has its own tavern. You may only be able to pay in cash, and that you should call the owners in advance if you plan to order food in this type of bar. For an experience in a true Pasiego tavern, you can visit
- Bar la Parra, in Aloños, ☏ +34 942593475.

- Bar El Cruce, in Elses, ☏ +34 942555704.

Miera 河谷附近还有一个手工啤酒厂
- DouGall's Brewery. Specialises in English ale styles and is one of the most popular craft breweries in Spain. You can book a tour on their website or pop in to their factory shop. Tours typically begin at 12:30 on Saturdays. Their beers can be purchased in most grocery stores in the region and even in some bars.

