会晒(Huay Xai,也作Houayxay, Houei Sai 等)是老挝博乔省的省会。它坐落于湄公河畔,这里是老挝与泰国的边境。对大多数游客来说,这里仅仅是一个交通中转站,这实在令人遗憾。虽然这个小镇没什么值得看的,但它是一个体验老挝生活的好地方:坐在湄公河畔,喝一杯老挝啤酒(Beerlao),看着河流缓缓流过,或者更好的是,看着成群结队的游客漂流而过。
了解
[]
会晒就位于泰国清孔对岸。
抵达
[]从泰国过境到老挝
[]- 第四友谊大桥. This bridge is the border crossing between Thailand and Laos. While the border is open from 06:00 to 22:00, the buses only operate from 08:00 to 18:00 which could leave you stranded.

从清莱乘巴士到清孔镇需90泰铢(2024年12月),或直接乘巴士到边境需140泰铢(2024年12月)。如果从清孔出发,可以乘坐嘟嘟车到泰国边境检查站,每人50泰铢(2022年12月)。巴士的条件和您能想象的一样糟糕,普通人的腿根本放不下。
- 完成泰国出境手续后,您必须乘坐穿梭巴士过桥(08:00-18:00,每人20泰铢;周末及16:00后为25泰铢;18:00后为40泰铢)。巴士满员后才发车,您可能需要等待长达一小时。不允许步行或骑自行车过桥。自行车可装载在巴士内运送,费用为100泰铢,有时已包含每人费用。
- 在老挝边境检查站,您需要填写一份入境表格,并将护照和一张护照尺寸的照片交给官员(他们会收取20泰铢的盖章费)。照片可以在清孔或清莱巴士站附近获取;如果您没有护照照片,官员会扫描您护照上的照片(收费80泰铢)。
- 大多数国籍人士可获得30天落地签。2022年的价格为40美元(泰国和越南国民较便宜)。欧元金额通常与美元相同,因为老挝当局忽略了汇率差异。也接受泰铢和基普,但汇率很差(40泰铢兑1美元)。周末和16:00之后,有额外的官方“加班费”,为10,000基普/1美元。即使没有这些情况,您很可能还是会被要求支付额外费用,但通过与官员争论或一旦签证盖好就快速离开,通常可以避免。
- 截至2024年12月,老挝移民官员仍会以“费用”的名义,在您取回护照时向您索要额外的50-100泰铢。这基本上是腐败,但大多数人会支付,因为他们只想尽快过境。
- 有一个售票柜台,可以购买前往巴士站、市中心以及许多国内和国际目的地(如中国边境)的巴士票。嘟嘟车前往会晒市中心通常每人50,000基普或100泰铢(2022年11月)。否则,需要步行10公里。最低车费为400泰铢,如果您抵达时间较晚,可能需要独自支付全部费用或与其他乘客分摊。
- 反之(从会晒到清孔),从市中心到边境的嘟嘟车(在老挝称为songthaew)一人乘坐费用为200泰铢(或130,000基普)(2024年2月)。在“高峰时段”,即清晨,有许多人前往边境,因此市中心的干道上有许多嘟嘟车,但到10:00时,您可能需要走一段路才能找到一辆。在老挝移民局,有指纹和拍照。过河巴士在工作日为25泰铢(15,000基普)。泰国边境的一个柜台出售前往清孔的songthaew车票,价格为60泰铢。如果您告诉他们您要去清莱,他们可能会示意任何前往清莱的巴士停下,这样您就不必前往巴士总站了。当地前往清莱的巴士(90泰铢)很破旧,没有空调,座位硬,但所有的门窗都敞开,足以带来凉意。新冠疫情后,会晒-清莱之间的直达巴士尚未恢复运行。
乘汽车
[]您可以从万象沿着“闹鬼公路”开车过来。如果您想体验一下它的“闹鬼”,可以在晚上开车。没有建筑物,没有灯光,到处都是高大的树木,可能会让人感到有些毛骨悚然。
边境的友谊第四桥距离会晒约20 公里。
乘飞机
[]会晒的机场很小,每周二、周四和周六有从万象出发的航班。然而,截至2022年3月,该机场因跑道升级工程而关闭。目前没有航班。
乘巴士
[]会晒周围有两个巴士站。
- Keo Champa 巴士站(也称 Bokeo 站). About 5 km south of central Huay Xay is the traditional long distance bus terminal.

- Phet Aloune 巴士站. Further south of central Huay Xay. International buses (PLS Company) to China & Thailand leave and arrive at this station.

抵达会晒后,可能会有兜售人员主动询问您的下一个目的地。如果您回答“琅勃拉邦”,他们会极力推销VIP巴士票,并声称巴士“早已售罄”。他们会收取更高的价格(几乎是实际价格的两倍),其中包含到巴士站的交通费。抵达巴士站后,您会拿到一张标有实际价格的票,上面的金额会像刺痛一样提醒您自己的愚蠢。
如果您要在会晒停留至少一天,可以乘坐嘟嘟车到巴士站(10,000基普),并购买您计划离开当天的车票。您在嘟嘟车上花费的额外费用,将远远超过巴士票上节省的100,000-150,000基普。
从南塔
[]路程为198 公里,现在需要5-6小时,途中停留一次吃午饭。09:30的巴士大约在14:30抵达博乔巴士站。票价为60,000基普(2016年9月)。嘟嘟车前往边境或您选择的旅馆,收费为10-25,000基普。
从清莱
[]每天有四班巴士从清莱直达Phet Aloune巴士站,并在边境等待。票价为220泰铢。PLS公司的巴士每天10:00和16:30从清莱的2号巴士站出发。巴士会过湄公河桥,并在两国边境进行通关,最终抵达老挝的博乔。更便宜的选择是自行过境:本地红色巴士每小时一班在清莱和清孔之间(2024年12月为90泰铢),或直接前往边境(2024年12月为140泰铢)。
从其他目的地
[]每天都有前往/来自孟赛(330 公里,85,000基普)、万象(900 公里,230,000基普)和景洪,中国(150,000基普)的巴士。
[]
[]- 慢船码头 (1 km north of town, where the truck-carrying ferry barges also dock). The slow boat is mainly used to leave Huay Xai as the journey moving upstream is usually just too long for most people. The boat ride from Luang Prabang is divided into two days via Pakbeng and done by different boat drivers. The boat used to leave at 11am but as of Dec 2024 this has been moved to 9am. It is now not possible to take the earliest bus from Chiang Rai and still catch the slow boat. You are forced to spend the night in the town. One has the speculate they changed the timing on purpose to force the extra night and boost the local tourism.
The slow boat from Pakbeng arrives in Huay Xai at around 17:30 which leaves just about enough time to cross the border to Chiang Khong. You can stay overnight in Huay Xai to avoid a stressful border crossing. See Luang Prabang and Pakbeng for the full scoop if traveling downriver.

会晒至百成 200,000基普(2024年12月)。会晒至琅勃拉邦 400,000基普(2024年12月)。购买全程票的请注意二次购票诈骗。如果在第一段行程中有人检查了您的票,无论如何都不要让他们收走票。第二段行程将是不同的船只和船员,如果您告诉他们昨天票被检查并收走,他们会说与他们无关,并坚持您购买新票。
没有定期的上游班次,但您可以包船前往南塔,费用约为1,500,000基普或6,000泰铢(整船包车)。船只可载6-10人(旱季末期河水低时,船只载客量会减少)。
您也可以乘坐喷射船前往琅勃拉邦,这是一段颠簸、刺耳且可能致命的6小时旅程。请参阅琅勃拉邦#乘船抵达,并先阅读关于喷射船的警告。喷射船码头在城南5 公里处。
据称,旧的渡轮服务仍在运行,但仅限于泰国和老挝公民。请改乘桥梁过境。
乘火车
[]老挝-中国火车在Na Teuy(Nateuy)站停靠,有官方的小型巴士在那里等待接驳乘客前往许多目的地。询问柜台是否有开往博乔(并与司机确认)。小型巴士空间狭小,道路状况不佳,颠簸会很常见(避免最后一排拥挤且敏感的座位)。一名官员会在所有乘客就座后收取车费(2024年2月为200,000基普)。小型巴士会在途中停靠洗手间(您可能需要使用丛林)以及可能一次较长的用餐停靠,大约四小时半后抵达会晒的Phet Aloune巴士站。
四处逛逛
[]您可以步行游览主街。长途出行可乘坐自行车出租车。前往中国早市单程车费应为10,000基普。
看
[]- 卡诺堡. On top of the hill, dominating the Mekong, the French colonial-era Fort Carnot era has undergone some conservation work, but it is still quite dilapidated. One of the towers can be climbed, providing a good view of the Mekong (in 2018 the tower was not accessible due to much scrub). Though not spectacular at all, it's a good way to start one's travel in Laos and remember that the country has been a favorite playground of Western powers for decades.

- 登上主街尽头、靠近边境的寺庙塔顶,可以欣赏美景。
活动
[]- 长臂猿体验, main street, Huay Xai, info@gibbonexperience.org. A forest conservation project that raises funds by taking guests into the Bokeo Nature Reserve, home to the Laotian black crested gibbon. Once thought extinct, it is now known that up to 400 people live in this forest. The Reserve is mostly primary monsoon dry deciduous forest, but also contains some lowland slash-and-burn agriculture. The Gibbon Experience is the only way to visit the Reserve. Every other day there is a truck covering the 3½ hours to the last village, where you start your hike to the project. Accommodation is provided in terrific tree houses in giant trees over 40 m high. To access the houses, you glide on a cable from a surrounding hilltop. There is an extensive cable network set up to explore the canopy, providing breathtaking views of the scenery. You can book at their office in Huay Xai or by emailing them. 2 days/1 night: 1,400,000 kip, 3 days/2 nights: 2,450,000 kip.

- 金三角经济特区 (mid-way between Huay Xay and Tachileik, Myanmar). The provincial economy is now dominated by the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone (GT SEZ). In 2007, the Chinese-owned Kings Romans Group entered into a 99-year lease for 10,000 hectares on the banks of the Mekong. The company was granted 3,000 of these hectares as a duty-free zone, now the SEZ. As gambling is illegal in China, and the SEZ is only a two-hour journey by road from China, casinos and hotels catering to a Chinese clientele were built. As an unintended consequence, a robust industry involving trafficking in endangered animals has grown up around the Chinese tourist trade. Several restaurants in the SEZ serve exotic meats: tiger, pangolin, bear cub and python. Menus openly include such fare as bear paw, monitor lizards, geckos, snakes and turtles. Tiger bone wine is also frequently served. Shops in the SEZ sell animal parts, stuffed animals and ivory, all in contravention of the CITES treaty to which Laos is a party. Has to be seen to be believed — and lamented. It costs 1500 baht or 1,000,000 kip (Dec 2024) to go with tuk tuk from Huay Xay to the SEZ and back.
. - 早市 (位于Ban Muangkeo郊区;沿着湄公河主路向南行驶,经过一座山丘后,有一个左转弯,请沿着这条路行驶直到到达目的地;沿途询问他人,以确保走对路)。 参观市场。最佳游览时间是清晨。
- 草药桑拿. Sauna 25,000 kip, massage 80,000 kip.

购物
[]购买前往琅勃拉邦的慢船旅程所需食物和饮料是最重要的事情,尽管如今大多数船上都有食物和饮料供应。食物不算太好,但可以接受。
- Money: There's a small bank office offering change for cash and travellers' cheques next to the immigration office. It has no commission and good rates, better than in the town. Most guest houses and restaurants in town deal in baht, kip, and US dollars at decent rates. There are ATMs on the main road straight up the hill from the immigration office with a maximum withdrawal per transaction of 1,000,000 kip. It is better to get baht from Thailand and exchange them here because of the higher limits in Thailand. The official money exchange counter within the border building complex on the Lao side of the bridge has very good exchange rates (less than 2% added to baht rate and less than 1% added to euro rate compared to the exchange rates published by a bank, as of 2015). The bus ticket office at the Thailand side of the border changes baht to kip at market rate. They also change some other currencies. (Nov 2022). Most hotels and mini markets in town change baht to kip but in bad rates. You'd be very lucky to find a rate with just 2.5% overcharge with most of them trading at a 5.5% overcharge. Paying for food directly in baht can easily result in more than 20% overcharge.
- 自动取款机:BCEL自动取款机收取20,000基普的取款费(警告:即使您按“取消”,交易仍会进行!),货币兑换率比市场价低约5-6%。Phongsavanh自动取款机收取20,000基普的取款费,每次最多可取2,000,000基普。(2024年12月)
餐饮
[]大多数旅馆提供简单的餐点。
在河畔餐厅欣赏湄公河日落。
- 《长臂猿体验》办公室隔壁的餐厅是镇上外国人的聚集地。它有一个漂亮的花园餐厅和俯瞰湄公河的露台。
- Daauw Home (沿着通往寺庙的台阶上去,走第一个左边的土路,您会在右边看到它)。 由Project Kajsiab(一个旨在改善老挝北部博乔省人民健康的非营利组织)经营的小型酒吧和餐厅。晚餐两人份70,000-100,000基普;饮品有啤酒、茶和Mojilaos。火堆旁或阳台上环境宜人,氛围轻松。
- Khongvab 烤鸭 (经过Sabaydee Guesthouse约20米,在对面)。 仅晚上营业。 对于所有厌倦了鸡肉和猪肉的人来说。深受当地人喜爱,味道鲜美。下午14:00到17:00烤鸭时,您一定不会错过。
- Latsuly Return. 餐厅俯瞰慢船码头和卡车渡轮,是观赏人生百态的好地方。
- 无名 (在水边,主街上,距离旧边境检查站约1公里)。 露天餐厅,在湄公河畔设有宽敞的露台。提供老挝烧烤,是日式涮涮锅和韩式烤肉的美味结合,即您可以自己烤制和炖煮肉类和蔬菜。
饮品
[]镇上的夜生活并不丰富。想喝杯啤酒,只需去一家餐厅,或者从附近的商店买些老挝啤酒。
住宿
[]经济型
[]- BAP Guesthouse. 算是一个旅行者聚集地。价格不是镇上最便宜的,员工也不友好,并有过度收费的声誉。这里不仅有过度收费,管理层还竭尽全力从您身上榨取尽可能多的钱。在这里预订去清迈的巴士很可能会让您滞留在清孔过夜。 60,000基普(双人间,2017年).
- Friendship Guesthouse (in the central strip of town). A great family-run guesthouse. Rooms are available as double or single and all have private bath with hot water. The building's tiled roof top balcony provides panoramic views of the city and neighboring Chiang Khong across the Mekong River, making for a great place to read a book during the day or have a cup of tea at night and watch life pass by, albeit slowly. Make sure that you book a room that is close to the street front as the rear rooms lack natural light. No Internet/Wi-Fi. Make sure you're clear about the rate. For example, at least one traveller reported expecting to get a 10,000 kip key deposit back when checking out, but being told suddenly that there is no key deposit. From 70,000 kip.
- Gateway Villas (在移民局上坡路的右侧)。 酒店或餐厅客户可免费使用Wi-Fi。 10美元起.
- Manirath Guesthouse (在通往渡轮的小巷旁边)。 干净,物有所值。 160泰铢/40,000基普.
- Oudomphone Guesthouse 2 (在BAP Guesthouse以北步行3分钟,在道路右侧)。 有双人卧室,地板一尘不染,提供热水淋浴。楼内设有一个不错的廉价餐厅和一个小型便利店/纪念品店。 80,000基普.
- Sabaydee 旅馆 (opposite Oudomphone Guesthouse). Good value. 90,000 kip twin with fan, 120,000 kip twin with AC (2018).

注意安全
[]在会晒边境检查站,一名旅游代理会主动提出帮助填写签证表格并安排慢船和百成酒店。然而,他收费过高(仅船票就索要1,100泰铢),并且并不真正履行他承诺的预订。尽管您在这个“海关”办公室支付高价在百成预订房间,但房间可能没有窗户或没有水。百成有很多旅馆。请从码头自己搬运行李,并在确定房间前进行检查。
连接
[]互联网和电话
[]镇上现在有许多“高速”网吧。目前的费率为20分钟5,000基普。
如果您持有泰国SIM卡并已激活了部分上网套餐,您可以使用此服务。所有泰国GSM网络的信号都能跨越湄公河,当地人也经常倾向于使用泰国号码而非老挝号码。老挝电信公司也有很多关于数据SIM卡的优惠。Lao Telecom(M phone)有一个优惠是1GB流量,收费50,000基普,有效期一个月。
下一站
[]- 过河前往清孔,泰国,就在河对岸。
- 乘坐老旧的巴士、两天的慢船或速度惊人的快船前往琅勃拉邦。慢船会在百成停靠,您必须在那里过夜。每天只有一班船,通常上午9点出发,但实际上接近10点。到百成的票价是200,000基普,到琅勃拉邦再加200,000基普。
- 乘坐巴士或包船前往老挝高地的南塔。
前往琅勃拉邦途中,在赛亚武里省的洪沙停留,体验骑大象。Elephant Adventures提供2-5天训练有素的伐木大象的骑行。这些行程得到ElefantAsia NGO的支持,该组织专注于大象的兽医护理、教育和环保意识以及象夫的经济可行性。
