斯柳江卡
斯柳江卡 (Russian: Слюд'янка, slyu-DYAN-kah) is a town in Irkutsk Oblast 110 km away from Irkutsk with a population of 18,000 people (2018). Coming from Irkutsk, it's where the Trans-Siberian Railway and Trans-Siberian Highway descend by hairpins down the mountain to Lake Baikal, at the lower tip of this halfmoon-shaped lake.
了解
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Whenever you ride Trans-Siberian railway and the train moves slightly south to curve the Baikal, it stops and the passengers pitched by the fish-sellers always get out to buy some smoked Omul then you have arrived in Slyudyanka station. When fish is bought and carriage is oozing with the smell, give a look to the station building. White plates are the same as the gravel under the rails. It's marble. The name Slyudyanka stands for another mineral found here - the mica (slyuda in Russian).
In 1647, at the heyday of the Russian conquest of Siberia, a prison was built at the site of present day Slyudyanka. Shortly after it was moved northwest to where Kultuk is now. The next building to appear, about a century and a half later, was a winter hut built in 1802 to provide shelter for voyagers along the Irkutsk-Kyakhta postal route. Going south up the mountains, the route was part of the Great Tea Road, also known as the Siberian route, along which tea arrived from China to Russia overland. In the middle of the 19th century a road to Ulan Ude (Verkhneudinsk back then) was built. However the arrival of the Trans-Siberian railway in 1905 was what turned the outpost into a settlement and eventually a town. It got the status as a regional center in 1930 and city status six years later.
The railway, and marble mining are the main sources of income; mica mining has stopped and the large fishing and fish processing industries didn't survive the collapse of the Soviet Union. Fishing is still ongoing on a smaller scale but the town is no longer the one and only omul capital it still was at the turn of the millenium.
The older buildings of Slyudyanka is on the strip between the highway (Lenin street) and the lake, southwest of the highway you can find Soviet buildings. A few kilometers to the north is the town of Kultuk - also handled in this article - which has almost grown together with Slyudyanka. From Kultuk the serpentine road and railway rises up the Olkhinsky Plateau towards Irkutsk, whereas the Circum-Baikal Railway follows the coastline east to Port Baikal. Overall Slyudyanka and Kultuk are mostly points of transit, people traveling the Trans-Siberian or around Lake Baikal will pass through here at some point though for few they're the destination. They nevertheless offer attractions to keep a visitor busy for half a day or so.
抵达
[]There's boat traffic on the lake, but not to Slyudyanka. The nearest passenger airport is in Irkutsk. As such the ways in are by train, bus or car.
乘火车
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Trains on the Trans-Siberian stop at Slyudyanka and they're almost certainly the most common way in. Normal passenger trains usually just stop for a few minutes (as opposed to half an hour back in the day) so to visit even the station you need to continue on a later train train. The journey time by long-distance trains from Irkutsk is 2.5 hours, from Ulan Ude 5.5 hours. From the former you can opt for local trains - elektrishkas - that take three hours but tickets are much cheaper. Both include some of the most beautiful sections on the Trans-Siberian; from Irkutsk the descent from the high plateau to Lake Baikal, from Ulan Ude the southern shore of the lake. Slyudyanka is also the western terminus of the Circum-Baikal railway.
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- 斯柳江卡-1 (Слюдянка I), ул. Тонконога, 18. The main station, doubling as one of the town's landmarks. It's more "touristy" than average Russian railway stations as it has a small museum but not a proper waiting room. It's also on the Baikal side of the railway; to reach the commercial side of the city you need to cross the long pedestrian bridge across the tracks. There are several kiosks on the platform.
- 斯柳江卡-2 (Слюдянка II). Mostly a goods station, though local trains stop here. Use this station to access the beach and Shamanka rock.
- 库尔图克站 (Култук). Wooden station on the CBR.
乘巴士
[]You can take marshrutka #543 from Irkutsk railway station (158 руб, 2 hours). They depart hourly or even more frequently, in addition there are marshrutki from Irkutsk bus station. Marshrutka #103 connects from Baikalsk, and there are also marshrutki from Tunkinskaya Dolina (near the Mongolian border), and Arshan. Finally there are lines passing through Slyudyanka such as Ulan Ude-Irkutsk, though the latter don't have official stops in the city.
- 公交车站 (Автостанция) (at the central square). A small square where buses stop. There's no station building, just a small room for drivers with schedules posted on the wall.
乘汽车
[]Slyudyanka is also at the Trans-Siberian Highway, more exactly at the P258 "Baikal" section between Irkutsk (110 km) and Ulan-Ude (350 km). The road from Irkutsk has a lot of curves and you can expect the drive to take at least two hours. Also, the section between Kultuk and Slyudyanka can take up to 20 minutes because of heavy traffic. From the west, local road A333 comes in from Tunkinskaya Dolina and eventually Khankh, Lake Hövsgöl and Mörön in Mongolia.
四处逛逛
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There are local marshrutka minibuses, but since the town is small there is little use for them. Marshrutka 101 goes from the south of town across Slyudyanka and all the way to Kultuk and runs every 20 minutes. The walk from Rudo district in the SW of the town to the centre takes about 20 min. Anyway you can see the bus stops on map on this website.
看
[]市中心
[]- V.A. 季加洛夫矿物博物馆 (Минералогический музей В.А. Жигалова), Ulitsa Slydyanaya 36 (3 km from downtown), ☏ +7 39544 5-34-40. A private collection of stones from the Baikal region, all of them collected by Valeri Zhigalov (1943-2018). His widow operates the museum nowadays and is open on prior appointment but you may also drop by at random and she may open the museum if she's in the mood for it. 300 ₽.
- 历史矿物博物馆 (Историко-минералогический музей), Ulitsa Babushkina 20. Tu-S 10-17. This stone museum too is the result of a private collector, who conducts tours. It's housed in one of the former railway buildings in the city.
- 斯柳江卡-1火车站 (Вокзал станции Слюдянка). Slyudyanka boasts the world's only railway station entirely built out of marble (mined in the region). The station was designed by Italians working on the CBR (at the time part of the Trans-Siberian) in 1903-04. There are also other details from that time; a bust of Mikhail Khilkov, minister of railways back then, and the imperial-era emblem of the ministry can be seen here and there on the station (restored after the fall of communism). There is also a small exhibit inside the station building showcasing the region's railway history.
- 圣尼古拉教堂 (Никольская церковь), Ulitsa 40 let Oktyabrya 40 (between the railway station and the lake). A wooden church built in 2008 where an earlier church had been destroyed by an earthquake. Interestingly, it has railway-themed decorations in the form of carvings.
- 水塔 (Водонапорная башня), Zentralnaya ploshad (central square). Neo-Gothic red brick water tower, used by the railway and next to it an old locomotive. Interestingly these are two blocks southwest of the railway and on the other side of it seen from the station. The tower was built by Poles exiled to Siberia for their opposition to the czar, and at one place if the tower they've placed the bricks so as to form an obscene word.
- 熊与猴子纪念碑 (Памятник медведю и обезьяне), Ulitsa Lenina/Ulitsa Gornaya. A statue depicting two figures from a fairy tale, placed there to catch drivers' attention of a sharp curve. There used to be several of them in the region, but this is the only one left.
Finally, you can take a stroll among the wooden houses from the first years of the 20th century, these are between the railway and the lake. The simpler houses were inhabited by railway workers whereas the more elaborate ones were for engineers and administrative staff.
周边地区
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- 萨满岩 (Шаманский мыс). A narrow rocky peninsula sticking a few hundred meters into the Baikal, serving as a natural divider between Slyudyanka and Kultuk. There's a path to the tip of the peninsula, or you can just look at it from the nearby beach or from the railway stop Slyudyanka 2.
- 旧“斯特列尔卡”大理石采石场 (Карьер «Стрелка»). An abandoned marble quarry fairly close to the town, you can go here and pick up a piece of marble if you like. The place is overgrown with grass and access is free. Marble mining is still ongoing at the larger Pereval quarry a few kilometers to the west, which is closed to outsiders.
Kultuk
[]- 贝加尔湖之字形公路 (Байкальский серпантин). The road and rail section down the mountain offer some of the best views to Lake Baikal, Kultuk, and the Circum-Baikal Railway. Stopping on the switchbacks with your car is illegal, but the cafe has a parking lot.
- 环贝加尔湖铁路纪念碑 (Стела КБЖД), Ulitsa Zheleznodorozhnaya (at the lake shore). Near Kultuk station there's a memorial to the Circum-Baikal railway, part of the Trans-Siberian before the shortcut from Irkutsk across the mountains was built.
活动
[]- Hike: Slyudyanka may serve as a base and starting point for walks into nearby mountains.
- Beach life: The waters of Lake Baikal are too cold to swim in even on the hottest summer days (still many tourists try it), but locals do tan on the beach northeast of the city.
购物
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A shop in Russian is "магазин", so look for this sign.
- Kurbatovski (库尔巴托夫斯基美食店), 巴黎公社街 5号 (中央广场). 9-21. 设有熟食和面包店区的超市。附近还有服装、电子产品和家用电器商店。
- 市场 (在盘山公路旁). 路边市场，还可以买到鱼和纪念品。
吃喝
[]- Baikalskii Serpentin 咖啡馆 (“贝加尔山路”咖啡馆) (库尔图克). 8-23. 在该地区的路边咖啡馆中，这家脱颖而出。它位于通往库尔图克和贝加尔湖的之字形下坡路上方，可以欣赏到绝美的风景。食物美味，份量足，他们的馅饼大到可以两人分享。如果您从伊尔库茨克来，不允许在马路对面转弯（可以做到，但违反交通规则），您需要开到盘山公路的掉头点再上来。同样，当您离开时，需要向安加索尔卡方向开 3.5 公里，然后才能掉头开往库尔图克和斯柳江卡。 200-300 ₽.
- Baikalov 咖啡馆 (“拜卡洛夫”咖啡馆), 十月四十周年街 41号 (火车站和贝加尔湖之间). 10-23. 一个拥有舒适沙发休息室的咖啡馆，这在一个老式木制铁路工人住宅中显得有些出乎意料。菜单每天都不同，鱼和海鲜很常见，但不是当地的鱼，而是“精致”的西伯利亚乡村菜肴，如面粉篮沙拉和水煮蛋。 300-500 ₽.
- 铁路工人食堂, 铁路街 28/4号. 24小时. 便宜简单的菜肴。 150 ₽.
此外，还有许多路边咖啡馆，从早到晚营业。
住宿
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除了下面列出的酒店，在斯柳江卡外的路边还有“乡村酒店”，除非您有车，否则这些酒店不太实用。
- 斯柳江卡旅社 (“斯柳江卡旅社”), Shcholnaya街 10号，7号公寓 (从市中心向西南方向步行约 25 分钟), ☏ +7 395 4453 198. 含早餐。房东能讲流利的英语，很乐于助人。 提供 5-6 人间床位，价格为 500-600 卢布.
- 火车站宿舍. 如果您在晚上乘火车抵达，可以在火车站的洗手间里休息几个小时。清晨，友好的工作人员会叫醒您，然后您可以参观周围景点并乘坐环贝加尔湖火车。
- Arshan 旅馆 (“阿尔尚”旅馆), 十月四十周年街 11号, ☏ +7 902 545-24-05, +7 904 140-91-80. 就在湖边，房间很基本、很小，墙壁很薄，但工作人员很友好，早餐也不错。 双人间：从 2500 ₽ 起.
- Tourist 旅馆 (“图里斯特”旅馆), 环贝加尔街 1-б号, ☏ +7 950 132-12-10. 同样位于湖边，舒适度一般。房间有独立浴室，有共用厨房。 双人间：从 2500 ₽ 起.
- Edelweiss (“埃德尔维斯”旅游基地), 斯柳江纳亚街 44号 (城镇的西南边缘), ☏ +7 914 912-08-65, edelveisslud@gmail.com. 适合徒步前往山区的徒步旅行者，这里有供 2、3 和 5 位客人入住的房间以及露营地。桑拿、停车场或行李寄存等“额外”服务都需要收费。 400 卢布/人，帐篷位：100 卢布/人.
- Baikalskiy Ray 酒店 (“贝加尔湖天堂”酒店), Gornaya街，28号 (库尔图克), ☏ +7 964 230-03-03, +7 964 230-01-00. 一家新酒店，所有房间都能看到贝加尔湖的景色。带阳台的房间不额外收费。比其他地方的设施更好，尽管酒店感觉有点“塑料”。它设有一家餐厅，提供不错的食物，全年每天从 9:00 到 21:00 营业。 双人间：3000 ₽.
- Pik Cherskovo 旅馆 (“切尔斯基峰”旅馆), Profsoyuznaya街 17号 (苏霍伊鲁切伊村，距离斯柳江卡东南几公里), ☏ +7 924 632 75 80. 不是名字暗示的山顶小屋，而是位于湖边的旅馆。有一个咖啡馆，季节性开放。 双人间：2500 ₽.
连接
[]- 邮局 (俄罗斯邮政), Rzhanova街，4号.
Megafon 在镇上有 4G 信号，更远的地方有 3G 和 2G 信号。MTS sistema 和 Tele2 在镇外也有 4G 信号。Beeline VEON 有 GSM 信号。
下一站
[]- 环贝加尔湖铁路从斯柳江卡出发（或到达）。火车 6201 Matanya 每周四次（周一、周四、周五、周日）约 13:20 从斯柳江卡出发，5-6 小时后抵达贝加尔港。
- 阿尔山：每天有一辆班车前往这个山麓温泉小镇，上午 9:30 出发；价格约为 250-300 卢布。旺季时，请尽量提前预订。
- 拜卡尔斯克是跨西伯利亚铁路东边的下一个城镇。西边的大城市是 伊尔库茨克，东边的大城市是 乌兰乌德。
- 徒步者可以徒步前往切尔斯基峰，海拔 2090 米，是哈马尔-达班山脉最高的山峰之一。这是一次为期两天的徒步。
| 途经斯柳江卡的路线 |
| 新西伯利亚 ← 伊尔库茨克 ← | W  E |
→ 乌兰乌德 → 哈巴罗夫斯克 |