Kosciuszko National Park(科西奥斯科国家公园) 位于 斯诺伊山脉,是新南威尔士州最大的国家公园,也是澳大利亚最高的国家公园。这片阳光炙烤的土地并不常与雪联系在一起,但该公园提供了良好的滑雪机会。
了解
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Kosciuszko National Park(科西奥斯科国家公园)占地 6,900 平方公里,距离悉尼西南方向约 5-6 小时车程/500 公里。
历史
[]该公园被原住民使用了超过 20,000 年,在夏季是他们享用营养丰富的 Bogong 飞蛾的聚会点。1840 年第一位攀登这座山峰的欧洲人 Edmund Strzelecki 以一位名叫 Tadeusz Kościuszko 的波兰立陶宛英雄的名字命名了这里最高的山峰,这解释了这个对大多数澳大利亚人来说难以发音的名字(“KOZ-ee-OS-koh”)的词源。不出所料,它通常被简称为“Kossie”。
该公园于 1906 年建立,名为“National Chase Snowy Mountains”(斯诺伊山国家保护区),并于 1944 年更名为现在的名称。
地貌
[]整个公园都是山区,平坦的区域很少。公园里有几个湖泊,就像任何山区一样。
动植物
[]鉴于这是大陆一个普遍非常温暖的地区中的一个寒冷地区,这里的野生动物相当独特。corroboree frog(彩饰蛙)、mountain pygmy possum(高山袋熊)和 dusky antechinus(暗色假鼠)生活在高海拔地区。这里还有大量的野马。
气候
[]该公园气候寒冷,高海拔地区每年约有 4 个月会经历大雪。春末时仍能看到积雪的残余,但已没有新雪。
游客信息中心
[]公园内有五个游客信息中心,这对于许多人来说可能有些不寻常,因为大多数公园甚至没有一个游客中心。
- Khancoban Visitor Centre, 2 Scammel Street, Khancoban, ☏ +61 2 6070 8400, info.khancoban@environment.nsw.gov.au. 周一至周五 9:00-16:00 (午休 12:30-13:00). 除了可以获得信息外,游客中心还出售书籍和地图,是值得购买的纪念品。它也稍微在公园“外面”,如果需要,您可以在这里购买通行证。

- Perisher Valley Office, 9914 Kosciuszko Road, Perisher Valley, ☏ +61 2 6457 4444, perisher@environment.nsw.gov.au. 冬季 (6月至10月第一个星期):8:30-16:00 (午休 12:30-13:00)。夏季:周一至周五 8:30-16:00 (午休 12:00-13:00)。周六周日全天. 这里的员工通常不仅专门负责Perisher的信息,如果您需要Charlotte Pass的任何信息,这里通常也会毫不犹豫地提供帮助。

- Snowy Region Visitor Centre, 49 Kosciuszko Road, Jindabyne, ☏ +61 2 6450 5600, srvc@environment.nsw.gov.au. 8:30-17:00. 在此了解野生动物和原住民文化。

- Tumut Region Visitor Centre, The Old Butter Factory, 5 Adelong Road, Tumut, ☏ +61 2 6947 7025, tumutrvc@environment.nsw.gov.au. 9:00-17:00. 游客信息中心位于旧奶油厂,提供游客指南、地形图和四驱地图,以及关于公园内任何地方火灾的信息。工作人员以友好著称。

- Yarrangobilly Caves Visitor Centre, 50 Yarrangobilly Caves Road, Yarrangobilly, ☏ +61 2 6454 9597, yarrangobilly.caves@environment.nsw.gov.au. 9:00-17:00. 更专注于洞穴之旅和徒步,但也可以帮助您进行附近区域的徒步(理想情况下,您应该去Tumut游客中心,但Yarrangobilly也可以提供帮助)。

抵达
[]乘汽车
[]斯雷德波
[]进入 Thredbo(斯雷德博)区域有两种方式。第一种是通过 Jindabyne(金达拜恩)的 Alpine Way(阿尔卑斯公路),这是一条更宽、更易于通行的路线。这是最常用的路线,有双向车道,而不是一条共享车道。另一条路线是从 Khancoban(坎科班)出发,这是一条更难走、蜿蜒曲折的道路,从海拔 230 米爬升到西伯利亚地区的最高点 1550 米。它只有一条车道,这意味着您需要与对向车辆共享车道(实际上很少见),当有对向车辆驶来时,您应减速至 30 公里/小时。尽管从 Khancoban(坎科班)到 Thredbo(斯雷德博)仅 78 公里,限速为 80 公里/小时,但由于道路极其蜿蜒,旅程实际上需要两个小时。
Perisher(佩里舍)和 Charlotte Pass(夏洛特山口)
[]可以驾车前往 Perisher Valley(佩里舍山谷)、Smiggins Holes 和 Guthega。道路铺设良好且维护良好,除了在最恶劣的天气条件下,通常都会保持开放。冬季,非四驱车必须携带雪地防滑链,即使道路畅通且天气晴朗。如果需要安装防滑链,将会有相应的指示牌。
在高峰时段,尤其是在 6 月和 7 月,Perisher(佩里舍)和 Jindabyne(金达拜恩)之间的道路可能会出现长时间延误,在极端恶劣的天气下,交通甚至可能完全停滞。查看网络上的天气报告和道路状况,或者如果您从 Jindabyne(金达拜恩)出发,请收听广播。如果交通报告显示情况不佳,请考虑使用 Ski Tube(滑雪缆车)。
从 Jindabyne(金达拜恩)出发,跟随指示牌和 Kosciuszko Road(科西奥斯科路)前往 Perisher(佩里舍)。Guthega(古特加)的转弯处有指示牌指向右侧,Smiggins(斯米金斯)则在 Perisher Road(佩里舍路)上,距离 Perisher Valley(佩里舍山谷)几公里。道路指示清晰,最好遵循路标,因为有时您的 GPS 可能无法工作。
滑雪季节期间,通往 Charlotte Pass(夏洛特山口)的道路关闭,唯一的交通方式是乘坐 Perisher Valley(佩里舍山谷)的雪地交通工具。无论道路是否被雪覆盖,非居民都无法通行,因为在道路积雪时试图离开会遇到困难。您不能在 Perisher(佩里舍)过夜停车,所以这意味着您必须将车停在 Bullocks Flat(布洛克斯弗拉特)的 Ski-Tube(滑雪缆车)处,乘坐 Ski-Tube(滑雪缆车)到 Perisher(佩里舍),然后乘坐雪地交通工具前往 Charlotte Pass(夏洛特山口)。毫不奇怪,当您到达时,您会发现大部分滑雪人群已经被甩在了后面。在冬季,白天可以去玩,并在 Perisher(佩里舍)停车,但这种情况很少见。
夏季,从 Perisher Valley(佩里舍山谷)到 Charlotte Pass(夏洛特山口)是一段愉快的车程。即使在主要滑雪季之外,偶尔也会下雪,但仍然很冷。
Yarrangobilly(雅朗戈比利)
[]Yarrangobilly 相当偏远,只能通过长长的蜿蜒的 Snowy Mountains Highway 驾车前往。从 Tumut 出发,向东行驶,沿 Great Dividing Range 爬升,走 B72 公路约一小时,然后转入 Yarrangobilly Caves Road。不过,这里路标清晰,迷路的可能性非常小。从 Cooma 出发,也向西行驶 1.5 小时,然后沿蜿蜒的 B72 Snowy Mountains Highway 爬升,并转入 Yarrangobilly Caves Road。从岔路口开始,Yarrangobilly Caves Road 是一条单车道(单向)公路,蜿蜒穿过小镇,约 5 公里,直到抵达 Yarrangobilly。
乘飞机
[]最近的设有定期航班服务的机场是 Cooma–Snowy Mountains Airport(库马-斯诺伊山机场)(OOMIATA)。从那里您可以租车或乘坐巴士前往 Kosciuszko National Park(科西奥斯科国家公园)。
费用和许可证
[]对于车辆,从 6 月的第一个长周末到 10 月的最后一个长周末,每 24 小时收费 29 澳元。在一年中的其他时间,每天收费 17 澳元。前往 Thredbo/Perisher(斯雷德博/佩里舍)、Khancoban(坎科班)和 Selwyn(塞尔温)的费用是强制性的。公园其他区域的费用如下所示。
如果您选择从 Jindabyne(金达拜恩)进入,有一个收费站,您可以在不下车的情况下付费。但是,如果您从 Khancoban(坎科班)进入,您必须在 Thredbo(斯雷德博)停车并在新南威尔士州公园办公室付费。不这样做的会被视为逃费,可能会导致巨额罚款。
对于没有 Kosciuszko National Park(科西奥斯科国家公园)日票或新南威尔士州公园年票的游客,Yarrangobilly Caves(雅朗戈比利洞穴)每天每车收取 4 澳元的费用。如果您只是来这里,您 **不** 需要购买 Kosciuszko(科西奥斯科)门票。但如果您已经支付了 Kosciuszko Parks(科西奥斯科公园)的门票,则无需支付 4 澳元。
请注意,Lower Snowy River(斯诺伊河下游)、High Plains(高地)和 Tumut area(图姆特地区)不收取公园入场费。
四处逛逛
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新南威尔士州公园和野生动物服务局将公园分为七个区域;本文也遵循此划分,尽管您可能会在不同区域找到 Thredbo(斯雷德博)和 Perisher(佩里舍)。七个区域包括:Thredbo-Perisher(斯雷德博-佩里舍)、Lower Snowy River(斯诺伊河下游)、Khancoban(坎科班)、Selwyn(塞尔温)、Yarrangobilly(雅朗戈比利)、Tumut(图姆特)和 High Plains area(高地地区)。由于 Thredbo(斯雷德博)、Perisher(佩里舍) 和 Charlotte Pass(夏洛特山口) 已有自己的文章,此处不涵盖相关信息以避免重复,但包含了一些重要信息。有关这些目的地的具体信息,请参阅 respective pages(各自的文章)。
公园拥有自己的电动铁路。 Skitube Alpine Railway(滑雪缆车高山铁路)(顾名思义)主要是为滑雪者在以下区域之间移动而建造: Bullocks Flat (可供车辆通行和停车) 以及滑雪度假村 Perisher Valley and Blue Cow Mountain.
否则,如果您驾车前往,那么 Alpine Way(阿尔卑斯公路)贯穿公园的南部区域。Jindabyne(金达拜恩)和 Thredbo(斯雷德博)之间的路段是一条相当不错的路,但一旦您再往上走,就变成了一条单车道共享道路。所有车辆从 Thredbo(斯雷德博)到 Khancoban(坎科班)必须使用防滑链,**只有** 四驱车可以豁免。此外,小型四驱车如 Kluger(克鲁格)在下雪时没有防滑链将无法行驶,因此您需要一辆真正的四驱车才能在雪地里正常行驶。
在北部区域,Snowy Mountains Highway(斯诺伊山公路)贯穿其中,从 Cooma(库马)到 Tumut(图姆特),但它始终是双车道(每向各一条车道),限速为 80-100 公里/小时(50-62 英里/小时)
看
[]常规
[]Thredbo-Perisher(斯雷德博-佩里舍)
[]- Blue Lake, Blue Lake Walk. 一个令人惊叹的冰川湖,可以通过一条穿过独特的澳大利亚桉树和高山草甸的小径到达,那里生长着其他地方看不到的植物。

- Charlotte Pass lookout, Kosciuszko Rd, Charlotte Pass (位于 Snow Gums Boardwalk 最北端。这里没有确切的地址,而且很容易通过 Charlotte Pass 前往(尽管冬天道路关闭,但滑雪缆车可以到达)). 享受美景,就在艰苦的山顶徒步之前。在较冷的六个月里可以看到雪,但即使在较暖和的六个月里,这里的景色也毋庸置疑。

- Thredbo Community Bell, Thredbo. 澳大利亚海拔最高的钟,位于海拔 2037 米处。距离山顶只有约 200 米。

- Seamans Hut, Summit Road.

- Bullocks Hut, Ski tube way, Crakenback.

- Kosciuszko Education Centre, 7637 Kosciuszko Road, Wilsons Valley, ☏ +61 2 6450 5600. 8:30-17:00. 了解澳大利亚阿尔卑斯山的野生动物、地理以及公园的原住民遗产。教育中心包含一些动手操作的展示和互动项目。奇怪的是,教育中心还有一个关于不丹环境及其山地地理的部分。

- Snowy Mountains Cinema, 49 Kosciuszko Rd, Jindabyne, ☏ +61 2 6457 1777. 虽然不在Kosciuszko National Park内,但它位于Jindy的Snowy Region Visitor Centre区域内。虽然大部分只是最新的电影,但有些内容是关于雪的。

Kosciuszko walk lookouts(科西奥斯科徒步观景点)
[]- Kosciuszko lookout.

- Cootapatamba lookout.

- Mount Kosciuszko summit lookout, Summit Walk, Kosciuszko. 这个了望点俯瞰着下方的一切。一旦您到达这里,您就站在澳大利亚大陆的最高点。到达这里需要相当长的跋涉,但景色绝对值得,也是来之不易的。虽然与其它山峰相比,这条步道相当容易走,但高度并不能定义自然美。

Lower Snowy River area
[]- Wallace Craigie lookout, Barry Way, Ingebirah. 此观景点不仅能欣赏到雪河的壮丽景色,还能看到海拔694米的山脉。如果您是狂热的摄影爱好者,请带上您的相机。

- Jacks lookout, Barry Way, Ingebirah. 公园里为数不多的能全年看到雪河的观景点之一,同时也能看到澳大利亚阿尔卑斯山脉的南部地区。如果您运气够好,甚至可能看到袋鼠、小袋鼠和鸸鹋。

Khancoban area
[]- Olsens lookout, Olsens Lookout Rd, Geehi. 这个观景点可以独特地欣赏到主山脉的西坡和这里的灰烬森林。请注意,琴鸟可以模仿你的声音,但它们通常不会造成任何伤害。

- Scammells Ridge lookout, slightly off Alpine Way, Geehi (Turn off where there's a sign that says "Scammel Spur Lookout" (other signs say "Scammells Ridge lookout", but they both are the same)). 这是一个位于高山公路旁边的风景优美的景点,海拔1000米,再次证明了山脉永远看不厌。哦,还有,这些山峰也会被白雪覆盖。

Selwyn area
[]- Kiandra heritage precinct, 8950 Snowy Mountains Highway, Kiandra, ☏ +61 2 6947 7025.

Yarrangobilly area
[]
- Yarrangobilly Caves. 公园的一部分,拥有多个洞穴,其中四个易于进入,一个可通过自助游览,另外三个可通过导游陪同。每个洞穴都来自不同的时期,并且彼此距离较远。
Tumut area
[]- Black Perry lookout, Snowy Mountains Highway, Talbingo.

- Landers Falls lookout walk, Landers Falls Walking Track, Pinbeyan. 向下俯瞰雪河谷和山脉,同时也能看到兰德斯溪瀑布。

High Plains area
[]- Coolamine Homestead, Blue Waterholes Trail, Cooleman. Coolamine Homestead拥有建于19世纪的一些历史建筑,您可以在那里了解19世纪末期在这个偏远、乡村荒凉的地方的生活。这里还有一些保存完好的旧报纸。

活动
[]徒步
[]- Main article: Hiking in Kosciuszko National Park
Kosciuszko National Park has plenty of hiking trails, and there are different hiking trails for different levels. As most of Kosciuszko's scenery is inaccessible by car, hiking remains the primary means of seeing the park's beauty.
The most important of all the hikes are the Mount Kosciuszko summit trails, taking you to the peak of the Australian mainland. It can be done even if your fitness levels are only average, and there are good facilities along the way, including toilets.
Alpine Way
[]The Alpine Way was created around 1950 as part of the approach to the Snowy Mountains System. However, it was not asphalted until the 1990s.
The road connects Jindabyne in the east to the New South Wales/Victorian border in the west, crossing the Murray River, near Bringenbrong/Upper Towong, connecting a vast majority of the Snowies, with the only major towns in the Snowy Mountains not part of the route is Perisher and Charlotte Pass. But otherwise, the two-lane road is very curvy and offers great views of the highest mountains in Australia, the most famous ski areas on the continent and the Murray Gorge.
Although the road doesn't have much historical significance, it certainly has a lot of tourist significance, and the only way you could get to the top of Mt. Kosciuszko.
If you're going up, or have just come down, Khancoban will be an important stop. For those going up, regardless of what season it is, you'd want to fill up here because the next point of civilization is only in Thredbo, a 2-hour drive up. There are some cafes and accommodation here, if you want to take a break before going up. There is also Alpine diesel available here as well.
If you're coming down from Thredbo, you're in luck, since Khancoban provides excellent opportunities to take a break with the many cafés here.
Skiing
[]Kosciuszko contains 100 percent of all ski resorts in New South Wales. There are four ski resorts, though two are significantly more appealing and visited than the other two. Additionally, three of the four ski resorts are in a more southerly location, further away from the capital cities of Sydney, Canberra, and Melbourne (though if you happened to be in Melbourne, it is more convenient to go to a Victorian ski resort).
Perisher is the largest ski resort, best known for its extensive network of skiing trails. There is an amplitude of facilities in the village, but unlike the other three ski resorts, Perisher is made up of four different ski resorts: Blue Cow, Smiggin Holes, Guthega and Perisher Valley. It is also the most convenient of all to get to, as it is accessible via Australia’s only ski tube.
Thredbo is the second largest ski resort, and the most popular ski resort with first-time skiers. It too, has a good range of facilities, but receives significantly less snow. Thredbo also has significantly better developed chairlifts, and the only gondola in Australia and these operate year-round (even outside the skiing season). However, do be aware that everything in Thredbo is way more expensive than the other three ski resorts, and even budget foods have price tags of what would be the price of upper mid-range foods elsewhere.
Charlotte Pass is not a very well-known ski resort, and if it happens to be your first time visiting the Perisher section of Kosciuszko National Park, good chances are that you’ll only first encounter the name “Charlotte Pass” when you first visit. The village is entirely inaccessible by car during winter due to the significantly higher altitudes but is quieter and less commercialised – so if you do want to ski without all the crowds, but still have some facilities and not operated by a single business, then Charlotte Pass would meet your criterion.
Selwyn (or Selwyn Ski Resort) is a fair distance from the other three and is operated by a single monopoly (somewhat like Corin Forest in Canberra) and is further up north in Mount Selwyn. There are relatively few facilities, and accommodation options are limited – but many come here as part of a daytrip from somewhere like Cooma or Jindabyne.
购物
[]餐饮
[]See Thredbo#Eat and Perisher#Eat for places to eat within the resorts. However, these are some restaurants that are of particular interest.
- Parc Cafe, Snowy Region Visitor Centre, Kosciuszko Road, Jindabyne, ☏ +61 2 6456 2517, hungry@parcjindy.com.au. 周一至周六 6:30AM-4PM 周日及公共假期 8:30AM-3PM。圣诞节休息. 游客中心旁的一家咖啡馆。这家咖啡馆没什么特别之处,除了它位于公园游客中心旁边。

- Eagles Nest, Thredbo Top Station, Thredbo, ☏ +61 2 6459 4200, tahreception@evt.com. 每日 9:30AM-3PM. 澳大利亚最高的餐厅,海拔1937米。

饮品
[]住宿
[]
Lodging is mostly found in the settlements that exist within Kosciuszko National Park. See Thredbo § Sleep, Perisher § Sleep, Yarrangobilly Caves § Lodging, or Charlotte Pass § Sleep for lodging within these settlements.
The only lodge available outside any settlement is the Wolgal Hut in Kiandra, but has been indefinitely closed due to severe damages from the 2019–20 bushfires.
Camping, on the other hand, is a much better way to enjoy the outdoors of Kosciuszko National Park. There are campgrounds in every part of the park; most only have a $6 booking fee (and seriously, that's it), so for the ultra-low-cost budget traveller, camping is a good way to save some cash.
Lower Snowy River
[]注意安全
[]下一站
[]- Tumut is a town just outside of the park and a good base from which to explore it.
- SE Forest National Park is further southeast – although it's only about a quarter of the size of Kosciuszko NP, it holds one of the last few pristine patches of wet fern rainforests in southeastern New South Wales.
