普陀山

普陀山 (普陀山 Pǔtuóshān) is an island and National Park in 舟山, near 宁波 in 浙江省, and derives its name from a sacred Buddhist mountain at the center of the island.

了解

Putuoshan reaches only 297 meters above sea level and is 5 km east of 舟山 island in 浙江省. The mountain is dedicated to Guanyin, often known in English as the Goddess of Mercy or the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara.

This is by far the lowest and among the most accessible of the four sacred mountains of Chinese Buddhism (the others being 峨眉山, 五台山, and 九华山), and because it's a small, forested island, the space available for visitors is somewhat constrained. This can make it quite crowded and far from tranquil, especially around the most famous temples. However, the island still retains a special atmosphere and natural surroundings, and seems more laid-back than many similar tourist destinations. With roughly 80 temples on the island, of which only about three are famous, it's easy to find more-obscure, less-crowded options.

There is an accommodation bureau at the port. The staff are extremely helpful, and provide reliable information on hotels and guest houses on the island. During national holidays and the nights before Guanyin's three birthdays it is advisable to make prior room reservations, but this is not generally necessary at other periods.

Another tourist office is on the main square near Puji temple, and this is a good place to pick up free English-language guides and maps.

抵达

[编辑]

You can only reach this island by ferry, but you have several options for where to embark. Ferries arrive at the1 普陀山客运站 (普陀山客运站) at the south end of the island.

• 2 沈家门渡轮码头 (沈家门半升洞客运站) (The Shenjiamen ferry terminal can be reached from the Shenjiamen bus station by several city bus routes, most notably 6 (¥2, 20 minutes).). 06:00-17:30. The 15 minute fast ferry ride from the ferry port in Shenjiamen costs ¥30 (every 20 minutes), while a slower ferry plies the same route for ¥14 (25 minutes, a few per day). You will need to show ID to get a ticket. (updated Jul 2019)

• 3 朱家尖渡轮码头 (朱家尖蜈蚣峙码头) (This ferry port has its own intercity bus terminal and is near the Zhoushan Putuoshan airport.). 07:00-22:00. The 12 minute fast ferry ride from the ferry port in Zhujiajian costs ¥30. You will need to show ID to get a ticket. The 15-minute frequency is similar to Shenjiamen, but these ferries are much larger because they serve an expansive parking lot and a bus terminal. (updated Jul 2019)

• 上海吴淞渡轮码头 (上海市吴淞码头) (Near the Songbin Road station on line 3.). Overnight ferry between Baoshan district in northern Shanghai and Putuoshan. Leaves Shanghai Monday, Wednesday and Friday around 19:30, usually stops at another island along the way around 05:30, and arrives at Putuoshan around 07:30. The return trip leaves Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday around 16:00, arriving in Shanghai around 06:30. Times and stops vary by date, so you need to find the schedule for the month you wish to travel. There are also tickets that include a bus from central Shanghai to the ferry port. (updated Jul 2019)

• 上海小洋山渡轮码头 (小洋山客运码头). A fast ferry leaves from Shanghai's Xiaoyangshan terminal (actually in Zhejiang) at 10:20, arriving in Putuoshan at 12:50. Passengers are collected at a bus station near Nanpu Bridge at 08:30 and driven to this rather remote ferry terminal. The return trip leaves Putuoshan 13:30, arriving at Xiaoyangshan at 16:00, then the Nanpu Bridge bus terminal around 18:00. (updated Jul 2019)

乘坐巴士

Most buses arrive at the Zhujiamen ferry terminal. Shenjiamen is also an option, but the4 沈家门公交总站 is several km from the ferry terminal.

Combined bus+ferry tickets are available to (and presumably also from) Ningbo South bus station, for ¥100, with similar options available for Hangzhou and Shanghai. This includes the ¥30 fast ferry to Zhujiajian. These tickets are sold just to the right of the main ticket office at the Putuoshan ferry terminal, and can save some hassle.

Ningbo has regular buses from the Ningbo South bus station to Shenjiamen (¥56, 2 hours) or Zhujiamen (¥72, 2 hours).

Shanghai has several departures daily from Shanghai Sightseeing Bus Center, Shanghai Nanpu Bridge Bus Center and Shanghai South Long Distance Bus Station (¥138/4-5 hours).

From Hangzhou, there are buses from the south bus station (407 qiutaolu 秋涛路407) to the bus station on Zhoushan (shenjiamen 沈家门). Buses depart approximately once per hour, take 3-4 hours, and cost ¥70.

飞机

• 5 舟山普陀山机场 (舟山普陀山机场, HSN  ^IATA). On Zhujiajian island immediately south of Putuoshan, this small airport has domestic flights to several major cities. The Zhujiajian ferry terminal for Putuoshan is just north of the airport, accessed by a frequent local bus route. (updated Jul 2018)

费用和许可证

No matter how you arrive, it costs ¥160 to land on Putuoshan as the whole island is a National Park. This is collected in a large hall as you leave the ferry dock. If the accommodation options on the island are too extortionate for your tastes, you can get free re-entry if you register your face at the "visa office" on the right after leaving the ticket hall. You will then need to find the facial recognition gates when you return the next day.

Unlike at many other Chinese national parks, transportation around the island and to Luojiashan is not included in the ticket. The efficient shuttle bus network links all the island's main attractions, and charges either ¥5 or 10 per ride, depending on the distance. The destinations and costs are posted at each bus stop. The return trip to Luojiashan costs ¥70.

四处逛逛

As many bus stops are some distance from the temples, be prepared for some long walks. Furthermore, as bus signs are usually in Chinese characters and pinyin only, it's advisable to write down the name of your destination before you set out.

If weather permits, the island is best explored on foot. This allows you to avoid the crowds and also to visit pavilions and temples that are off the beaten track. The return journey can be made by bus.

Of course, riding a mountain-bike would also be a great option, no cars, great scenery... But you can not hire bikes on the island. Too bad!

看

著名寺庙

• 1 法雨寺 (法雨寺, 法雨禅寺). At the foot of Fodingshan (Foding mountain), at the north end of 1000 Step Beach. ¥5. (updated Jul 2018)
• 2 慧济寺 (慧济寺, 慧济禅寺) (near the top of Fodingshan). The lazy can reach the temple by cable car (¥40 return). Take Bus 2 from the port (¥10). More active visitors and pilgrims take the concrete steps from near Fayu Temple. It takes about 1 hour to climb the mountain. If your interest is old military installations, turn right soon after the start of this stair ascent up a smaller set of stone steps. After 10-15 minutes, this continues through a series of anti-ship and anti-aircraft gun emplacements with gunner accommodation and ammunition stowage built into the cliffs. Everything is in very good condition, there is no impediment to access, and looks like the PLA continues to take an interest. Also being off the beaten path, there is a complete absence of other visitors. You can then continue to the summit of Fodingshan on earthen paths, using common sense navigation because nothing is signposted in this area. But this is less interesting. ¥5.  
• 3 普济寺 (普济寺, 普济禅寺) (at the center of the island). This is the most accessible and famous monastery on Putuoshan. Nearby there are hotels, restaurants and interesting shops. A public ritual performed by the monks runs from 4:30AM to 7AM. It is crowded at this time, so unless you are interested in the ceremony, it's best to visit the temple outside these hours. ¥5. (updated Jul 2018)

Luojia Shan

A small island to the southeast of Putuo Shan which resembles someone sleeping on their back,6 洛迦山 (洛迦山) can be seen from Bukenqu Temple. An old saying states: 'if you don't visit Luojia Shan, the pilgrimage to Putuo Shan is incomplete'. The ferry to Luojia Shan costs ¥70 return, and departs from the7 洛迦山渡轮码头, near the main ferry terminal. There are at least two sailings per day, at least one in the morning and one in the afternoon, and the journey takes about 20 minutes. At busy times, the ferries may run every 20-30 minutes or there may be one or two extra sailings, so check the schedule or ask. The ferry stays at Luojia Shan for two hours before returning to Putuo Shan, so it is important to keep your eye on the time. Accessing nearly anything interesting on Luojia Shan requires passing over the main ridge, so be prepared for some stair climbing. The island has no food or accommodation, nor any commercial activity at all, aside from four drink vending machines which do not accept cash or cards.

• 4 妙湛塔 (妙湛塔) (300m up the stairs from the ferry terminal). An intricately-carved stone pagoda sits roughly on the island's belly button. (updated Jul 2019)
• 5 圆通寺 (圆通禅院) (Partway down the far side of the ridge, past the pagoda). (updated Jul 2019)
• 6 大觉寺 (大觉禅院) (Continue farther along the trail). Monastery accessed via a yellow-walled corridor. (updated Jul 2019)
• 7 洛迦山灯塔 (洛伽山灯塔). It is possible to continue another 300m past the monasteries to a lighthouse. (updated Jul 2019)

其他景点

• 8 北村. Accessed by walking north up the hill from the lower cable car station, past the large new development on the coast (on the right). After 1-2 km, at the end of the road, is the start of a footpath that leads through an historic village in various stages of disrepair. While some residents remain, the majority of villagers were re-settled in new dwellings with services back south of the ferry terminal. Continue on via a PLA training area to the northern tip of the island, but staying on the earthen path may be good advice. You have to walk back to the cable car station to exit the area.  
• 9 梵音洞 (善财古洞). From Fayu Monastery a 15 min. bus ride. It is a nice trip to the east coast. From there you can walk 20 min. through the forest to the quiet 10 善财洞 (善财洞).  
• Other Monasteries. If you don't want to meet many people and prefer to explore the quieter monasteries, try to walk around. There are nearly 80 other quiet and nice monasteries to explore in the forests. (updated Jul 2018)
• 11 潮音洞 (潮音洞). Cliffs carved with the three characters "Chao Yindong", handwritten by the Department of the Qing Emperor Kangxi.  
• 12 海印池 (海印池). 24 hours. A series of ponds, bridges, and pavilions in front of Puji Temple. The Royal Beiting, octagonal and Puji temple in formation of the axis will be sea seal pool is partitioned into one divides into two., thing two pool.Sea seal pool built stone three, intermediate a deck of flat and wide, North Temple front gate, South from the Royal Beiting, bridge has a pavilion, also known as the octagonal pavilion, facing the temple gate, visitors can sit here. Free.  
• 13 南海观音 (南海观音). 33m-high statue of Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy, to whom the entire island is dedicated. There is a large stone plaza in front, and the access road also accesses two small temples out on the rocks next to the ocean. ¥6. (updated Jul 2018)

活动

• 1 缆车 (普陀山索道). Ride the cable car from the bottom of the mountain then explore the temples at the top, climb down slowly and admire the pagodas and temples along the way. (updated Jul 2018)
• 2 佛顶山. 24 hours. Or, you could hike up Foding Shan as described above under Huiji Temple. The summit, the highest point on the island, is a military radar station and cannot be accessed, but the temple is worth a visit and the route up passes some interesting rocks and structures. Free. (updated Jul 2018)
• Relax There are two beautiful beaches near to the main hotels on Putuoshan, namely3 百步沙 and4 千步沙. The former has facilities such as lockers and showers, lounge chairs and parasols for hire, with quadbikes and banana boats also available. At night, Hundred Step Beach is sometimes used to host karaoke parties. Thousand Step Beach is longer and more peaceful but no facilities are available and signs forbid swimming. Another beach immediately south of Hundred Step Beach is closed to the public. The5 海岛南侧的海滩，虽然附近有个村庄，但不如百步沙开发得多或巡逻得勤。

购物

普济寺附近有一个夜市，出售各种纪念品、佛像和海鲜，还有一些便利店和几家提供廉价餐食的餐馆。

餐饮

• 寺庙素食。许多寺庙提供价格实惠（5-12元）的素食。三餐都有选择，但午餐最容易找到。午餐最早可能从10:30开始，并在11:30-12:00结束；晚餐则在16:00-17:00或16:30-17:30。早餐最难找，通常在07:30前结束。
• 素食。作为一个佛教岛屿，岛上大部分餐馆都提供种类丰富的素食菜肴。
• 中餐。普济寺附近的酒店设有对非住客开放的餐厅。
• 海鲜。在1 新村，位于码头以南，拥有众多海鲜餐厅，提供上乘的新鲜海鲜。价格比大陆贵20-25%，但贝类和鱼的质量是一流的。非中文使用者必须指着展示的食材，祈祷好运。

这里很少有英文菜单，而且大多数员工不会说英语，即使是在较大的酒店和餐馆。请别忘了带上您的英汉字典或翻译应用程序，特别是食用品名，上面写有中文。岛上西餐极其有限——主路上有一个小2 面包房/咖啡店，在通往普济寺的主路上，靠近隧道。如果您幸运的话，在较大的酒店也许能吃到一些吐司当早餐。

饮品

• 普陀山啤酒在一些酒店餐厅供应，值得一试，即使只是为了尝鲜。

住宿

住宿

如果您有酒店预订，码头可能会有酒店的小巴接送。请留意巴士站的标牌。码头设有信息/酒店预订柜台，否则步行一小段路即可到达普济寺中心区域，那里还有另一个信息中心。

根据您对住宿的要求，岛上提供各种价位的酒店客房，每晚价格从300元人民币到数千元人民币不等。周末价格会上涨，最高可达两倍。岛上有许多房屋和公寓作为旅馆运营，价格较低，但这些不允许接待外国人。如果价格过高，可以考虑住在沈家门，然后乘坐渡轮（见 费用与许可下关于验证船票可免费再入的信息）。舟驾门（Zhujiamen）提供更便宜的住宿，但它位于岛屿中心，离码头很远。

如果您想在高价位消费，可以看看五星级的 兰迪逊酒店 (2020年12月).

露营

公园内不允许露营。

野外露营

此公园没有野营区域。

注意安全

潮湿时，部分小径会很滑。岛上的几个区域是军事设施，最好不要进入或拍照。

下一站

• 从普陀山可以轻松抵达 宁波、上海 以及 舟山 的其他地方。