罗斯海
位于南极洲的罗斯海是世界上最靠南的海。它一年中的大部分时间都被冰封，但在盛夏时节，船只可以小心翼翼地进入。因此，它长期以来一直是极地探险的焦点，特别是前往南极点。来自澳大利亚和新西兰的游轮通常会访问这里，而从阿根廷尖端出发的游轮则会游览大陆另一侧的南极半岛。
该海西南角上的罗斯岛距离大陆30公里，并被冰盖永久地焊接在大陆上。它崎岖不平且火山活动活跃，有裸露的岩石可供建造。这里有一百多年的探险营地，至今仍被保存着，并且自1956年以来就一直有常驻基地。
麦克默多站是罗斯岛上的一个美国基地。附近是新西兰的斯科特基地，它们之间有南极洲的第一条公交线路穿梭。夏季有1000多人在此工作，冬季有100人。它有机场和码头用于运输，因此是南极点和南极洲其他基地的后勤和交通枢纽。
了解
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早期探险家进入南极水域时，遇到了巨大的冰障。他们很难区分哪些是大陆，哪些是岛屿，哪些只是海冰。但从19世纪开始，他们在夏季发现了更多可通行的区域，例如半岛。在罗斯海，他们发现了一个更南方但偶尔可通航的入口，可以通往内陆。更好的是，罗斯岛有一个天然港口，而且裸露的岩石比移动、开裂的冰更安全，可以用来建造小屋。这座岛屿成为了深入内陆的跳板。这里没有多少捕鲸或海豹捕猎活动，因为这些生物依赖于开阔水域，并且生活在更北的地方。
在19世纪和20世纪，几个国家声称拥有南极洲的主权，新西兰声称拥有“罗斯属地”，即从南极点到罗斯海的大陆的一个扇形区域。然而，这在1959年被《南极条约》所取代，该条约旨在保护脆弱的环境并搁置国家主张。因此，各个国家在这里拥有并运营基地，并对各自放弃的主张拥有虚构的权利。本文中对国家提及的理解应为此。该条约禁止军事活动，但对为民用工作提供的军事后勤支援没有异议：没有这些重型飞机，这里什么也做不了。
抵达
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乘飞机
[]飞往麦克默多的航班从新西兰的基督城出发，乘坐洛克希德C-130“大力神”等军用运输机需要8小时。麦克默多有三个机场，作为飞往大陆深处的集结点。
- 威廉姆斯场是位于罗斯岛以南15公里的冰盖上的一对整理过的雪跑道，仅供滑雪飞机使用，运营时间为12月至2月。跑道表面是8米厚的压实雪，上面覆盖着3米厚的冰，冰层漂浮在海峡之上。“威利场”（Willy Field）正在逐渐向冰架的崩解边缘漂移，但设施安装在滑橇上，并且已经移动过三次。一条16公里长的管道穿过冰面，从麦克默多输送航空燃油。飞行员会知道，威廉姆斯本人于1956年因冰面在他拖拉机下方塌陷而失踪。
- 冰跑道是每年春天重建的一对跑道，是初夏的主要机场，因为它可以容纳常规的轮式飞机，这些飞机的航程和载重能力都比滑雪飞机大。一架波音757曾在此试飞，并有望使用757执行客运航班，从而为其他航班腾出货运空间。跑道位于岛屿以南21公里处。停放的飞机倾向于下陷到冰中，如果出现明显痕迹，则会被拖到其他地方。到12月中旬，冰开始破裂，跑道被废弃，运营转移到威廉姆斯场。
- 凤凰机场于2017年启用，距离麦克默多21公里。它是一条单跑道，由压实的雪构成，足够坚固，可以承受轮式飞机。原计划是整个夏季都足够坚固，但事实证明只能在赛季初期使用。因此，它复制了冰跑道的功能，但并未延长轮式飞机可以抵达麦克默多的季节。它取代了附近的佩加索斯机场，该机场深受尘埃困扰后已关闭。
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[]请参阅南极洲了解从澳大利亚或新西兰出发的途经此地的游轮。
每年一到两次，破冰船会破冰进入 Winter Quarters Bay, with a freighter and an oil tanker in its wake. They hurriedly unload and depart, so if you arrive by these means it's either a short stay or a long one. The bay is the world's southernmost harbour, named by Scott as his 1901-1904 Discovery expedition spent two winters here. They'd only intended a single winter, but were unable to free their ship from the ice in summer 1902/03, and again for much of summer 1903/04. With a third winter almost upon them they were about to abandon ship, when the ice loosened and they were able to blast their way out to sea.
早期的卸货方式是直接卸到冰架上——危险且缓慢——或者卸到一个金属码头上，但冬季的海浪很快就将其摧毁。现在该海湾使用冰码头。这是一个大约240 x 90米的容器，注满海水后会结冰，上面铺有碎石形成驾驶表面，并通过缆绳固定。3-5年后需要更换，旧码头会被拖走并任其漂浮融化，并设信标以警示船只，直到它沉没。
海湾下方有一个能阻止冰山靠近的堤，但会困住污染。这里的冰长期以来被用作该岛的垃圾填埋场，因此每年春天都会融化，垃圾就会“眼不见，心不烦”。2001年的一项调查发现，下方有15辆汽车、26个集装箱、603个油桶以及大量其他物品。还有停靠船只的舱底油排放，以及陆地倾倒场地的径流。该站点的生态宣传将毫无意义，直到这个问题得到解决。
四处逛逛
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狗拉雪橇最终于1986年退役，因此基地附近的交通主要靠步行、滑雪、雪地摩托、巴士或拖拉机，而直升机和轻型滑雪飞机则前往更远的地方。麦克默多和罗斯基地之间的道路是一条坚实的土路。雪道穿过冰面通往机场和大陆，然后爬升到山区内陆。
麦克默多巴士站 is the Downtown terminus of Ivan the Terra Bus, a chunky red six-wheeler with 56 seats and a big baggage trunk. It runs whenever needed to the harbour, Scott Base and out to the airstrips to meet the flights.
切勿在未咨询您的主人您计划是否合理之前，以任何方式独自外出；并在安全返回后告知他们。情况可能在一瞬间从阳光明媚变成狂风暴雪。风卷起雪形成白茫茫一片，您会失去方向感，必须能够依靠仪器导航。岛上散布着避难小屋。
景点与活动
[]基地周围
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- 麦克默多站覆盖了罗斯岛南部半岛的尖端，包括新西兰斯科特基地的所在地。这里是裸露的岩石，紧邻一个天然港口，因此最早的探险家就发现了它的潜力，并且美国和新西兰的基地都于1957年在此建立。巴士站周边的居民区被称为“市中心”。美国基地的夏季人员约有1250名，冬季有250名。
- Chapel of the Snows (市中心). This non-denominational Christian church opened in 1989, replacing earlier buildings which burned down. It also hosts meetings of other faith groups and non-religious assemblies; in 2019 it was due for replacement (along with much of McMurdo), but COVID-19 has held that up. The altar is believed to come from St Saviour's in Lyttelton New Zealand, the last place Captain Scott attended church before sailing south. The Erebus Chalice of silver and gold was thought to come from HMS Erebus which mapped the Ross Sea around 1840, but it's now known to have been made in London in 1910.
- Albert P. Crary Science and Engineering Center (Crary Lab). Opened in 1991, this is the main scientific and technical working area within the station. It consists of five pods with a two-storey core, a biology pod, earth sciences and atmospheric sciences pods, and an aquarium.
- Observation Hill. The 230-m lava plug that rears up just north of the station and gives good views of the area. Halfway up, there's a bronze plaque near the site of the nuclear power plant that served the base 1962-72; it began cracking and leaking so it was replaced by diesel generators. At the summit, a wooden cross commemorates Scott, Oates, Bowers, Wilson and Evans, who perished in March 1912 on their return from the South Pole. They'd reached the Ross Ice Shelf and were within 20 km of a supply dump and close to rendezvous with their ship Terra Nova, but in failing health and weather they couldn't go further. The ship over-wintered and next spring sent out a search party which located them. Their notebooks and scientific samples were recovered (the first to prove that Antarctica once had a warm climate) then the tent was collapsed to become their grave. It became lost beneath deep snow and is now reckoned to lie 30 m deep within the ice shelf that you see from the hill. The ship's crew erected the cross before sailing home.
- Discovery Hut near the harbour was built by Scott on his Discovery expedition of 1902. It proved too cold and draughty for living quarters, so the crew just used it for storage while sleeping on the ship or in tents. The nearby cross is for George Vince, lost in a fall on that expedition. Later expeditions made similar use of the hut then it was abandoned from 1917. In 1956 it was dug out of the snow and is now preserved as a historic building. Don't refer to it as "Scott's Hut" as that's out of town and was built for his later expedition to avoid living here.
- Scott Base, ☏ +64 3 358 0200. The New Zealand base is 3 km from McMurdo, standing on firm rock at Pram Point. There's been a base here since 1957 but only the mess hut remains of the original buildings. It's a series of modules linked by covered corridors, staffed in summer by 85 and in winter by ten.
- 玩飞盘高尔夫：这是一个版本，你站在发球区，将飞盘投向远处的目标篮，从飞盘落地的地方继续玩。这是一个九洞球场，每年春天在市中心不同的路线上设置。没有发球垫，所以你可能需要在倾斜的冰面上投掷飞盘，在狂风中，同时躲避移动的机械。去康乐中心领取飞盘、当前球场地图和俱乐部规则。没有计划建造常规的高尔夫球场，但考虑到这项运动曾经在一些奇怪的地方进行过，这无疑只是在等待一位富有创意的球场设计师。
罗斯岛的其余部分
[]- 斯科特小屋 is on Cape Evans, on the west of Ross Island. It was built as a pre-fab by Scott in 1911 on his Terra Nova expedition to be more comfortable accommodation than his earlier "Discovery Hut". Indeed it was sometimes stiflingly hot. There were working areas and a stable for the ponies to draw the sleds. The nearby cross is for members of the "Ross Party" supporting Shackleton's 1914-17 attempt to cross the continent. They were laying supplies ahead of the main party, but their ship was torn from its moorings and they were marooned here.
- 沙克尔顿小屋 is at Cape Royds, the westernmost point of the island. He built this place 40 km north of Scott's Hut as a base for his 1907-09 Nimrod expedition. Many supplies were left behind, with a welcome note for anyone to use them, but only in 2006 was their stash of whisky and brandy discovered beneath the hut. The whisky has been recreated and sold as "Mackinlay's Shackleton Blended Malt". Off Cape Royds is a polynya: an area of open sea, where strong winds keep the ice away. This is crucial for penguins, and there's an Adélie penguin colony here, well south of their usual range.
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- 埃里布斯火山 is 35 km north of McMurdo in the centre of Ross Island. It's 3795 m high and is the world's southernmost active volcano. It's a Stromboli-type volcano, erupting continuously but without great violence, so it can be approached closely for study and for climbing. The usual climbing routes are from Lake Wilson on its western flank. It was discovered in 1841 by Ross (who gives his name to the Ross Sea), who named it and nearby Mount Terror after his two expedition ships HMS Erebus and HMS Terror. These ships were built as bombardiers, designed to fire mortars, so the names were apt. (The ships were later lost in Franklin's disastrous 1845 expedition to find the Arctic Northwest passage; their wrecks were only found in 2014 and 2016.) The summit crater of Erebus is a lava lake, fed from below by a magma chamber. Steam from side fumaroles freezes to create ice chimneys where microbial life is self-sustaining, with no sunlight or external organic input, so they may model life-processes on the early Earth or on other planets. The first people to climb Erebus were in Shackleton's 1908 expedition, and there are historic, protected campsite remains from Scott's 1912 expedition. (That party showed what they thought of it by naming one feature "Nausea Knob".) A modern observation station is run by the University of New Mexico but operates remotely. On 28 Nov 1979 Erebus was the scene of the Air New Zealand Flight 901 disaster, killing all 257 people on board. There was a navigational error and, although visibility was good, the pilots failed to see the white-against-white of the mountain ahead of them. The wreckage is still visible in summer on the north flank.
- 泰勒火山 is an extinct shield volcano on Ross Island 30 km east of Erebus. It's 3262 m (10,702 ft) high but less prominent than Erebus, as it rises among other hills. Don't confuse it with Mount Terror in Washington State USA, or you'll get entirely the wrong climbing instructions.
- 一条山脊连接着埃里伯斯山和泰勒山，其间的特拉诺瓦山峰高2130米（6990英尺）。
- 鸟山是构成罗斯岛北部地区的死盾火山。它高1765米（5791英尺）。
- 发现山是这个火山群的第四座火山，一座高2681米（8796英尺）的死层状火山。它位于大陆上，与罗斯岛隔麦克默多湾相望，但由于麦克默多湾通常冻得坚实，因此区别可能不明显。
周边地区
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- 罗斯群岛的其他岛屿很少有人visited，这意味着它们的栖息地几乎未受干扰。它们是：
- 北面21公里的博福特岛是一座古老层状火山的残余。它有受保护的区域，栖息着帝企鹅和阿德利企鹅以及南极贼鸥。甚至还有一些苔藓植被。
- 德尔布里奇群岛是罗斯岛南部的一个由四个小岛组成的群岛，分别命名为“无法进入岛”、“帐篷岛”、“大剃刀背岛”和“小剃刀背岛”。
- 白岛长28公里，被冰雪覆盖。这里有一个威德尔海豹聚居地。
- 黑岛位于其西侧，大部分没有冰。这里有一座无线电塔和一个麦克默多站的远程控制前哨站。
- Blood Falls are a lurid red flow out of the foot of Taylor Glacier. They stem from a pocket of sea cut off some 2 million years ago, overlain by the glacier and hypersaline so it doesn't freeze. The pocket is devoid of oxygen and contains strange micro-organisms plus iron ores - the iron oxidises on contact with the atmosphere to make the outflow rust-coloured.
- 维多利亚地是罗斯海的西岸及腹地，与东部南极洲相连。这里以“干谷”而闻名，降雪量和降雨量极少，还有一些湖泊和池塘，盐度太高而不会结冰。它的冰川汇集了坠落在内陆的陨石，其中一颗据信源自月球，另一颗源自火星，还有一个——最重要的——是一个水果蛋糕。这是斯科特船长的一队人丢失的，当时状况仍然良好。
- Zucchelli Station is a seasonal Italian base in Victoria Land. They have an ice airfield but climate change is shortening the season when this can be used, so in 2022 they're building a gravel runway on the glacier moraine to take long-distance wheeled aircraft.
- 扬·博戈站是位于祖凯利站以北5公里的韩国基地。维多利亚地还有德国的戈德瓦纳站（Gondwana）；新西兰的万达站（Vanda）已关闭。罗斯海东岸与玛丽·伯德地接壤的地方没有基地。
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- 南极横断山脉 hug the west coast of Ross Sea, and as the name implies, they stretch right across the continent, becoming indistinct on the western plateau then re-emerging to form the Peninsula. Mount Kirkpatrick (marked on map) at 4528 m (14,856 ft) is the highest of this range and can be climbed. It's mostly ice-free because of the dry climate and scouring winds, revealing its fossil sediments.
- 流入罗斯海的大陆冰川是您必须跋涉才能到达南极高原并最终到达陆地南极点的路线。最大的是博福特冰川，宽40公里，斯科特在1911/12年走的就是这条路线。但阿蒙森早了一个月到达南极点，通过阿克塞尔·海伯格冰川找到了更短的山路。从麦克默多到南极点约1360公里；巴士只会带您走20公里，但聊胜于无。
- 南极点穿越线是一条从麦克默多站到南极点的1600公里长的小径。它是由压实的雪铺成的，裂缝已被填平并用旗帜标出。只能由专用拖拉机行驶，拖着装有燃料和补给的雪橇。这些拖拉机不太灵活，因此小径会绕过横贯南极山脉，然后进入高原。从海岸到南极点的滑雪徒步路线部分沿着这条路线，但会穿过山脉以缩短距离至1200公里以下。它们非常昂贵，需要大约两个月，并且要求很高的体能和耐力。它们是单程徒步，您乘飞机返回。还没有人营销过从南极点到麦克默多的反向徒步，但大概足够多的钱就可以安排定制行程。
- 巨大的冰山，大小相当于县城，从冰川上剥离。2000年形成的B-15是牙买加大小（“B”表示来自大陆这个象限），直到2022年12月，仍有一个城市大小的碎片存在。它们被卫星追踪，但只有当它们摆脱浮冰进入开阔水域时才构成威胁：有关属于这一类别的冰山的详情，请参阅亚南极群岛。
购物
[]- 冰川野营中心 (市中心南侧)。 户外用品供应商，为您配备在这里生存所需的一切。
吃喝
[]![](http://wikivoyage.cn/wiki/File:McMurdo_Station's_"Ivan_the_Terra_Bus".jpg)
在南极洲的任何地方，食物都是一件大事；好的食物能带来快乐的人，而生活和工作在南极洲的人食欲很大。与其他南极洲基地一样，大部分食物都是冷冻或腌制的，每年一次由货船运抵。在早春的两个月里，“新鲜食品”（新鲜水果和蔬菜）会从新西兰每周乘飞机运抵；一月过后，由于优先考虑货物和乘客，这会逐渐减少。各种优质的新鲜面包和烘焙甜点随时都有。披萨相当受欢迎，并且经常被用作“麦克默多配菜”：在您已经装满食物的盘子上再加一片美味的新鲜披萨！
The main place you'll eat at is the 餐厅, Building 155. 24/7. The galley serves cafeteria-style meals for everyone on base, and visitors with prior permission. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are two hours each, and during the busy summer months an extra midnight meal is added with priority going to those working night shifts. Most meals offer 5 or 6 main courses, and a wide assortment of sides and desserts. Outside of regular mealtimes, snacks, leftovers, and fresh pizza are available at any time. Free (but only take what you will eat, and eat everything you take).
其他用餐或饮酒的地方有：
- Gallaghers Pub / Southern Exposure。 周二至周六 7PM–11PM，周日 6PM–10PM。
- 麦克默多咖啡屋。 每日 7PM–11:30PM。
- 麦克默多站披萨， ☏ 2455（国内）。 上午10点至晚上10点。感恩节和圣诞节休息。 想给您的实验室同事订些披萨，或者只是自己吃一个？打电话就可以定制您想要的任何披萨。 免费。
- Amaza Cafe (斯科特基地附近)。 他们讲了一个关于科里奥利力如何增强咖啡风味的好故事。
通常提供无麸质、素食和纯素食品。如果您有过敏症或其他饮食限制，请准备好选择有限。
住宿
[]这里不适合野营。您的旅行组织者必须与基地协商才能获得进入权限，或者自带大型自给自足的探险装备。
应对
[]- 155号楼市中心有富国银行ATM和图书馆。站内食堂也在此处，但访客需事先获得许可才能使用。
- 医院位于155号楼以东一个街区。
- 美国邮局位于镇顶，斯科特基地的路口处。
- 南极太阳报 [ 已死链接]是一份关于美国南极项目的在线杂志。
下一站
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