乌尔法(也称 Şanlıurfa,旧称 埃德萨)是位于安纳托利亚东南部的一座城市,也是 Şanlıurfa 省的首府。现代乌尔法市位于幼发拉底河以东约 80 公里处。该市人口增长迅速。
乌尔法有许多精美的古建筑,并且与《旧约》和伊斯兰传统有着密切的联系。整体氛围非常中东化,到处都是传统的黄色石头建筑、拱形建筑、穿着传统中东服饰的男女等。从西面接近时,这座城市无疑感觉像是东方世界的大门。人们非常友好,集市也很棒。
了解
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1984 年,乌尔法被更名为 Şanlıurfa(意为“光荣的乌尔法”),以纪念其在奥斯曼帝国在一战后失去第一次世界大战时,抵抗法国入侵的英勇事迹。这也就是地图和高速公路标志上显示的名称。Şanlıurfa 在非官方标志上通常缩写为 Ş.Urfa,例如公交车或餐馆上的标志。然而,在口语和当地,这座城市几乎总是被称为乌尔法。
气候
[]与土耳其东南部大多数地区一样,乌尔法属于半干旱和大陆性气候;夏季炎热干燥,冬季凉爽至寒冷,偶尔下雨,有时下雪。
夏季炎热,但这绝对是轻描淡写了;乌尔法的酷热程度远超温和炎热的中部安纳托利亚,甚至超过湿热的地中海地区,更无法与伊斯坦布尔或土耳其北部其他地区的温和气候相比。乌尔法夏季的平均气温在 38°C (100°F) 以上。再举个例子,伊斯坦布尔和黑海沿岸大部分地区在百年记录中从未达到过这个温度,而西欧大部分地区也只达到过一两次。这意味着,对大多数温带气候来说是历史性的热浪,在乌尔法却只是一个普通的夏日。除此之外,夏季天空晴朗,降雨极少,与土耳其南部的情况一样。
春秋两季温和至温暖(九月除外,九月仍然炎热),是最佳的旅行时间。
冬季凉爽,经常有霜冻。降雨偶尔发生,但有时会很大,尤其是在向春季过渡时。有时会下雪,但降雪后温度会很快回升。
由于温度较高,安纳托利亚大陆性气候的风暴季节(称为 Kırkikindi)在乌尔法来得更早,大约在三月和四月。这些阵雨和雷暴有时会导致延误和轻微损坏,但很少发生重大损坏或强降雨。
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抵达
[]乘巴士
[]巴士连接大多数大城市和地区城市,例如往西的加济安泰普和往东的马尔丁(两条路线都大约需要 4 小时)。一些住宿选择提供往返巴士站的免费接送服务。巴士站( otogar) is outside of the city center. There is a bus running from the main bus station in the center to the otogar, which takes about 30 minutes exit the otogar and take any bus running to the left that goes to "belediye". From here either take bus R1 to the Bazaar, or walk down Ataturk Blvd to the Bazaar.
乘飞机
[]从/往伊斯坦布尔、安卡拉和伊兹密尔,每天有多趟航班往返于尚勒乌尔法新机场。从机场往返有价格合理的接送服务,由 Havas bus service. Some accommodation choices also provide free airport transfers since the airport is out of town. Flights available from Turkish Airlines and Pegasus Airlines.
四处逛逛
[]市内有许多小巴线路,但所有景点都位于步行可达的紧凑老城区。
看
[]大多数景点都集中在一个小区域内,如果您住在附近,则可以步行游览所有景点,包括哥贝克力石阵。您可以上午参观博物馆,然后乘坐 13:45 的 0 路巴士前往哥贝克力石阵,大约在 16:30 返回。在博物馆咨询有关乘车地点和可能的时刻表变更信息。
- Göbekli Tepe, Örencik (By car just go to the terminus of the Havas bus airport transfer and follow the signs. By bus (Updated: Aug 2024) take Bus 0 (A smaller bus than most city buses) from the Archeological museum (grey bus stop, west of the museum, just south of the parking lot along the road). Buses run every hour on the 45's. (9:45, 10:45, 11:45, etc). Travel time is about 30 minutes. You can use an UrfaKart or tap your credit card on the bus to pay. Approx 35TL each way. Return from where you are dropped at the museum.), sanliurfamuzesi@ktb.gov.tr. Daily 08:30-19:30. Famed as the oldest temple in the world, Göbekli Tepe has changed the way that archaeologists look at history. Its existence pre-dates farming and settlements, and so it proves that man had religion before he even lived in a village or a town. Dated to 9000 BCE and listed by UNESCO as a world heritage site.
Post-2023 earthquake status: open to visits. 20 Euro (Aug 2024).

- Şanlıurfa Archaeology and Mosaic Museum, 2372. Sk 74/1, sanliurfamuzesi@kultur.gov.tr. Daily 08:30-17:30, box office closing at 17:00. The largest museum in Turkey, covering the history of the region, from the Paleolithic to the Ottoman period. Contains impressive real-size reconstructions of Gobeklitepe that you can walk in. Many artifacts from the nearby Ataturk dam and Harran. Given the size and amount of artifacts on display reserve at least 2 hours for a proper visit.
Don't forget that the Museum has two sections and visit the Mosaic exhibit south of the main building. 100 TL. - Necropolis (Kızılkoyun Nekropolü) (east of the Museum across the street). Extensive tombs that can bee seen from the street. Free.

博物馆以南有许多其他景点

- Cave of Abraham. Urfa is believed to have been the birthplace of Abraham (called Ibrahim in Arabic, he was an important prophet) and henceforth an important Islamic place of pilgrimage. Around the site of the cave are a number of mosques built around a park with water features. One of these mosques, the Halil-ur-Rahman has a pool ( .) occupied by a rather large number of holy fish. It is said that anyone who catches one of these will go blind. That said the story behind the pool is quite interesting: The pool is at a site where Nemrut (there's a legend claiming him to be the builder of the tower of Babel) wanted to burn Abraham as a sacrifice. God however intervened and turned the pyre into water and the coals into fish, thus saving Abraham. Legend also names it as the birthplace of Job.

- Şanlıurfa Castle. Tu-Su 08:30-17:00 (but indefinitely closed as of Jul 2023). The ancient ruined castle with newer walls dating from around 814 AD on the rocky promontory at the south side of town. A lone column is just about all that remains of the older structure but the views are spectacular. Almost mystical crimson and hazy sights from the terrace at the entrance of the castle over the old city during the evening call to prayer is hard to beat and well worth the effort the climb there, even if the grounds of the castle is closed already. 40 TL.

热闹的 集市 和老城区都很有魅力。
活动
[]由于夏季可能非常炎热,气温达到 40 °C (104 °F) 或更高,下午几乎不可能进行任何活动。在公园里,清真寺周围,您可以一边喝冰茶或其他冷饮(Sarayonu st. 街上也有几家酒吧),一边等待中午的酷热消退,然后再去探索老城区、集市或清真寺。晚上也可以在这里消磨时光。坐下来,喝杯清凉的非酒精饮料,玩双陆棋,或者只是聊聊天。
加入当地人,在圣鱼池边许愿并喂食圣鱼。根据当地的信仰,如果您恰好喂食了其中一条显然稀有的白鱼,您的愿望就会很快实现。鱼食可从池塘周围的众多供应商处购买,并由当地环保协会监管——强烈建议不要使用指定的鱼食以外的任何东西。
在清真寺附近的公园湖边抽水烟(Narghile)。
- 亚伯拉罕之路. Sanliurfa is at the northern end of the international trekking route, Abraham's Path, which follows the footsteps of the Patriarch Abraham throughout the Middle East. Walks from 1 to 10 days in length are possible from Sanliurfa. The Path in Sanliurfa joins together the sacred sites in the area.
购物
[]乌尔法是一个保守且炎热的地方,因此头巾在这里很受欢迎,男女都佩戴。乌尔法特有的款式是薰衣草色,带有白色刺绣或亮片图案。据说,1993-1996 年的土耳其总理访问乌尔法时就戴着这种款式的头巾,现在所有女性都佩戴。男女都戴。可以在集市上找到。
同样,带有图案的 Pos(h)i 头巾也是非常受欢迎且具有政治意义的购买品。它们有各种无意义的颜色,但库尔德族男子戴黑白格纹的,阿拉伯男子戴红白格纹的。
餐饮
[]请注意食品卫生,因为在乌尔法有很多人会肠胃不适。可能的原因包括饮用水、冰淇淋和烤肉串。这仅指夏季的旅行。
以 çiğ köfte(生肉饼)闻名。冬季用生碎肉制作;夏季用煎鸡蛋制作。绝对是该地区最美味的菜肴之一。
在 Köprübasi Caddesi 的精彩的 Zahter Kahvalti 享用早餐,就在“Hotel Ipek Palace”入口对面。
乌尔法以当地的开心果甜点而闻名。您可以在市中心的所有面包店找到各种口味。
饮品
[]由于乌尔法是一个朝圣城市,几乎不可能买到啤酒或其他酒精饮料。除此之外,您可以找到土耳其其他地方销售的各种软饮料,或者喝土耳其或阿拉伯茶(后者更甜或加薄荷)。
卡拉科云河(Karakoyun River)对岸的乌尔法区有几家小型、简陋的酒吧,当地的土耳其啤酒 Efes 可以在该地区极少数的小商店购买。这几家小型酒吧都很简陋,主要是一些男性顾客,播放当地的库尔德和土耳其音乐。
在 Gümrük Han 喝“murra”——这是一种非常浓烈的、半茶匙大小的咖啡。它并不特别好喝,但却是当地的一种体验。
更迎合味蕾的是 Menengiç(menen-gich)咖啡——它由咖啡和menengiç(野开心果)豆的糊状物制成,带有甜美的坚果风味。
住宿
[]寄宿家庭
[]- Yuvacali 村家庭旅馆, Yuvacali Koyu, Hilvan, Sanliurfa, ☏ +90 533 7471850, alisontanik@nomadtoursturkey.com. Check-in: flexible, check-out: flexible. It is possible (and a good deal more interesting) to spend a night or two in rural Sanliurfa, experiencing Kurdish hospitality at its best. Founded in 2009, Yuvacali Village Home Stays offers visitors the chance to milk sheep, learn how to make bread, and sleep under the stars as locals do. Included in the stay is a complimentary guided archaeological walk, and an orientation meeting detailing local customs, dress, history, and the responsible nature of the project. From €30 p.p..
经济型
[]- Aslan 宾馆 (Aslan Konuk Evi), 12 Eylül Caddesi (Demokrasi Cad.) 1351 Sok. No:10, ☏ +90 414 215-15-75, +90-542-761-30-65 (mobile), ozcan_aslan_teacher@hotmail.com. Check-in: noon, check-out: 11:00. This guesthouse welcomes backpackers, and is set in an elegant nineteenth century Armenian craftsman built house. Rooms are around a central courtyard and fountain, which is typical of Middle Eastern architecture. All rooms have A/C. Beds are a mixture of eastern style floor bedding and western style divan beds. Low cost pick-ups can be arranged from the bus station or the airport. The owner will gladly arrange a taxi ride to the bus station for you. The bus stop for minibuses is, however, only 10 minutes away. The cushions in dorms are full of dust as well as the carpets. People staying in a dorm share only one bathroom which can be a problem in busy times. The school which is across the street is really noisy and you can be sure it will wake you up every morning around 07:00. The owner offers tours to Mt. Nemrut, Harran and Göbekli Tepe. In case of Göbekli Tepe he may sell himself as a guide, which is really not worth the money. Try getting a taxi or a better tour. Dorm €7.20, double with private bath €18, triple with private bath €22.50, quad with private bath €27.
- Beyzade 酒店. 这家酒店坐落在一座历史悠久的豪宅内,房间很漂亮,配有空调、无线网络和独立浴室。
- 朝圣者宾馆 (Balıklıgöl Dergah ve Misafirhanesi) (at the yard of the newer but traditional looking mosque at the Holy Pond). The cheapest and most exotic, yet the most spartan accommodation in the city, the guesthouse, built for pilgrims to the town, is one of the few places in the country still offering a feel for the caravanserai tradition of the ancient Silk Road. You are provided with a straw mat, not-very-clean-looking but OK quilt and pillows and pick your place at the colonnade surrounding the courtyard—as there will be few others staying, finding a place is not a problem. The place shuts its gate after the night prayer (which is conducted roughly by 10PM in summer) and turns into a (rather overly) peaceful world—with Kurdish songs in a distance penetrating from the city that is still alive through the night—so don't be late after the dinner. As the place also serves as some sort of poorhouse, it's best to leave your bags and all your valuables (such as cell phone) in the warden's room (mihmandar), located at the side of the colonnade, for the night. There are basic bathrooms (with squat type toilets, running water, and liquid soap) at the side, which are open through the night and are for free for patrons of the place, as well as a free cold water dispenser. No matter how exotic it sounds, the morning prayer around 6AM at the mosque next door can be a deterrent to morning sleep, though, as it incorporates cymbals and some high-volume singing, which is unusual for the rest of the country.
中档
[]- Hotel Arte, Ataturk Bulvari No:7 (就在市政厅旁边), ☏ +90 414 314 7060. 入住:12:00,退房:11:00. 33 间设计独特的客房提供无线网络连接、卫星电视、空调、直拨电话和吹风机等设施。
- Hotel Bakay, Asfalt Cadessi 24, ☏ +90 414 215 2689. 配有空调、电视、淋浴和友好的员工,尽管早餐有点令人失望。
- Hotel Uğur, Köprübaşı Cad. No 3, Belediye Karşısı (easy 500m walk from city center toward the Old Town), ☏ +90 414 313-13-40, musma63@yahoo.com. Check-in: anytime, check-out: 11:09. All rooms have A/C, a TV, and Wi-Fi access. In addition, the hotel also has laundry service and a computer (with internet) for guest usage. The owner, Mustafa, speaks four languages (Turkish, English, Arabic, and Kurdish), and can organize daily tours to destinations in the surrounding region or in Syria.
- UR-Edessa Konukevi, Yusufpaşa Mahallesi Sarayönü Caddesi 889 Sokak No:4 (opposite the post office), ☏ +90 414 216-56-56. Check-in: flexible, check-out: flexible. Housed in a mansion dating back to 18th century.

奢侈
[]- Hilton Garden Inn, Karakoyunlu Mahallesi 11 Nisan Fuar Caddesi (Located Next to the Old Bus Terminal), ☏ +90 414 318 50 00. A 4-star Hilton Hotel, offering a service of 5-star. Such a fresh building with quite comfortable rooms, adjustable softness for both bed and pillows. But you should keep on your mind that the Hilton Garden Inns have no bell-boy and parking service, additionally the room service is not 24 hours.

注意安全
[]乌尔法似乎是一个非常安全的城市。在 Balıklıgöl/圣池区域有一个警察岗亭,您可以报告任何问题。
然而,据当地年轻人说,晚上在城堡山门附近可能存在危险的物质滥用情况,所以最好避免在夜间在那里闲逛。
下一站
[]- 前往哈兰(约 45 公里以南;从长途汽车站乘坐dolmuş巴士费用为 15 土耳其里拉。您也可以在 Havas 巴士站对面的 Nevali 酒店附近找到前往哈兰的dolmuş巴士;在 Google 地图上可以看到一条名为 124. Sk. 的小路),参观一些重建的蜂巢式小屋、最古老大学的遗址以及它们所处的贸易“堡垒”遗址。有趣的是,居民大多是伊拉克后裔,并认同自己是阿拉伯人。
- 马尔丁,向东约200公里,拥有石砌建筑和叙利亚东正教教堂,也是该地区另一个值得游览的地方。
- 阿塔图尔克大坝位于城市北部,是一项宏伟的工程项目,它利用幼发拉底河的水源,灌溉了乌尔法周围曾经的半干旱土地。
- 参观该地区的村庄,感受似乎自古以来几乎未曾改变的乡村生活。前往卡拉卡达格,在那里仍然可以看到游牧民族居住在他们的帐篷里,并且那里是公元前8800年小麦起源的地方。
- 可以进行一次短途旅行前往众神之山内姆鲁特山,或者前往该地区最大的城市迪亚巴克尔,这座城市也充满了历史。两者都可以从乌尔法一日游到达。
- 哈尔费蒂是一个河畔的古镇,位于西部,部分被大坝湖淹没。
| 穿越乌尔法的路线 |
| 加济安泰普 ← 尼济普 ← | W |
→ 与 |
| 加济安泰普 ← 尼济普 ← | W |
→ Kızıltepe ( |
| 迪亚巴克尔 ← 希尔万 ← | N |
→ |