See Rail travel in Australia for general information about travelling by train in Australia

The Ghan arriving in Darwin

Australia can be crossed by two great railway journeys, The Ghan, which crosses north to south straight through the heart of Australia, from Darwin to Adelaide, and the Indian Pacific, which crosses east to west, from Sydney to Perth.

了解

“ The Indian Pacific she goes rollin' down the track. Five thousand miles to travel before she's there and back. ”

—Slim Dusty - "Indian Pacific"

The Ghan 历史

The Ghan is named after the Afghan cameleers that transported goods to Australia's remote centre prior to the construction of the railway. The sand and heat made the trip entirely unsuited to horses. The cameleers overwhelmingly weren't from Afghanistan, they were just known as Afghans in the Australian vernacular.

The construction of the original Ghan from Adelaide started in 1878, with Oodnadatta reached in 1891 and, after a thirty-year break, Alice Springs in 1926. A separate but unconnected track from Darwin to Katherine in the north was also completed in the same year; this line was closed in 1976.

The original Ghan was twisty, narrow-gauge and built straight through many valleys prone to flash floods that washed away tracks and bridges. A decision was thus made to rebuild nearly all of the line in standard gauge, over 100 km to the west. The new line to Alice Springs opened in 1980, and the remaining 1,420 km (880 mi) section across the continent to Darwin opened in 2004.

Indian Pacific 历史

一条连接珀斯和澳大利亚东部主要城市、由联邦政府资助的铁路，是1901年为吸引西澳大利亚加入联邦而提出的各项优惠之一。新铁路选线勘测始于1907年，标准轨距的跨澳大利亚铁路于1912年开始建设，施工队伍从卡尔古利向东推进，并从奥古斯塔港向西修建。修建这条铁路是一项艰巨的任务，因为纳拉伯平原的极度偏远和荒凉使得后勤保障非常困难，施工队伍必须在距离最近城镇数百英里外的地方作业。施工队伍生活在轨道旁的帐篷城里，靠运送水和物资的“茶和糖列车”补给，而建筑材料则依靠马匹和骆驼运输。此外，由于第一次世界大战于1914年爆发，招募劳工和采购建材都变得困难。尽管如此，两支队伍最终于1917年10月17日在奥尔迪亚汇合，标志着铁路线的完工；这里现在矗立着“铁轨连接纪念碑”，从印度太平洋号列车上可以看到。第一班全程运行的列车于1917年10月22日从奥古斯塔港开往卡尔古利。

在联邦成立之前，澳大利亚的铁路大多由各个殖民地自行修建，每个殖民地采用了不同的轨距；新南威尔士州采用了标准轨距，维多利亚州采用了宽轨（1,600毫米），昆士兰州、西澳大利亚州和塔斯马尼亚州采用了窄轨（1,067毫米）。南澳大利亚州则采用了两种轨距；靠近阿德莱德的居民区以及连接维多利亚州的线路采用宽轨，而偏远内陆地区则采用窄轨。铁路于1917年完工时，从悉尼到珀斯旅行的乘客必须绕道通过阿尔伯里、墨尔本、阿德莱德、加勒、特罗维、彼得伯勒、奎恩、奥古斯塔港和卡尔古利，并在阿尔伯里、特罗维、奥古斯塔港和卡尔古利发生换轨。

随着新铁路的建成，行程时间逐渐缩短，允许更直接的路线。大矿业城镇布罗肯希尔于1888年通过窄轨铁路连接到皮里港（阿德莱德北部），但直到1927年才与新南威尔士州的标准轨距铁路网连接。这一新连接意味着乘客可以绕过墨尔本和阿德莱德，而是通过布罗肯希尔，取道更直接的路线从悉尼前往彼得伯勒，布罗肯希尔在此作为换轨站。1937年，阿德莱德至皮里港的宽轨铁路连接建成，同年晚些时候，跨澳大利亚铁路从奥古斯塔港延伸至皮里港，导致奎恩被绕过，皮里港取代奥古斯塔港成为换轨站。您可以在布罗肯希尔的硫化物街铁路博物馆、彼得伯勒的Steamtown以及皮里港老火车站的博物馆中看到这段历史。皮里港的铁路线曾直接穿过小镇的主街。

Subsequently, all of Australia's interstate railway lines were progressively converted to standard gauge. The Perth to Kalgoorlie segment was dual gauged to accommodate both standard and narrow gauge trains in 1968, while the segment from Broken Hill to Port Pirie was converted to standard gauge in 1970, allowing through services between Sydney and Perth for the first time. The first direct train departed Sydney for Perth on 23 February 1970, and it was named the Indian Pacific after the Indian and Pacific Oceans that it connected on each end of the route. The Adelaide-Port Pirie line was converted to standard gauge in 1982, albeit with the junction being shifted eastward from Port Pirie to to Crystal Brook, and the town centre of Port Pirie being bypassed. The Indian Pacific was re-routed in 1986 to include a stop at Adelaide on its way between Sydney and Perth.

Some towns along the line enjoyed several services a day during their heyday. The full Sydney to Perth service ran three times a week during its heyday, but today has bee reduced to just one train a week in each direction. Today, however, the irony is that railway buffs can see more of the rail history of the line and the towns along it travelling by car than by train. You can spend a good half day exploring the history of Peterborough and Port Pirie, but passenger trains no longer stop in either of them.

准备

规划时间

These are not high-speed transcontinental trains. They are slow, laid back and luxurious trains that know how to take their time and let you enjoy the scenery. The trains are privately run by Journey Beyond. The current iteration of both routes was not built for passenger traffic, but rather to serve the very lucrative freight business.

省钱攻略

Any way you look at it, The Ghan and the Indian Pacific are expensive. The more economical "Red Service" has been discontinued, and both trains now cater exclusively to the luxury market with an all-sleeper configuration. The lowest class of service is "Gold Service", which has single cabins (shared shower), twin cabins (shower en suite) and includes all meals in the dedicated restaurant car. This will set you back at least $2,115 on The Ghan, and $2,475 on the Indian Pacific in the low season, increasing to $2,845 on the Ghan and $2,835 on the Indian Pacific during the peak season. Add another $2000-4000 on top, and you can get a double-sized "Platinum Service" cabin, which also gets you a quieter dedicated lounge on board, and complimentary transfers from and to your place of accommodation at the start and end of your journey respectively.

If you have a car in Australia, the value proposition can improve slightly, if you take your car with you. On the premium fare there are often deals available to take a car for $99 extra, which you can then offset against the price of renting a car at your destination, or if you drive one way, the prospect of the 3000 km drive home. Taking your car with you is only possible when travelling from Adelaide to Perth and vice versa on the Indian Pacific, and when travelling from Adelaide to Darwin and vice versa on The Ghan. You will need to call Journey Beyond to make arrangements in advance if you want to take your car with you.

You cannot get off and board a few days later at most intermediate stations, as these trains are meant to be luxury rail cruises rather than practical modes of transportation. The exceptions are Adelaide, which is allowed as an intermediate stopping point for passengers on the Indian Pacific, and Alice Springs, which is allowed as an intermediate stopping point for passengers on The Ghan. Both these intermediate stops have to be arranged in advance, and you will need to book each leg separately if you want to stop off.

抵达

Darwin and Adelaide can be reached by plane from all major Australian cities and a few international destinations like Singapore, Denpasar, or Kuala Lumpur. Darwin does not serve any other passenger trains, while other passenger trains in Adelaide are limited to a twice-weekly service from Melbourne and its suburban rail network.

Sydney and Perth are well-connected by air, each with services to all other Australian capital cities and international destinations. There are public train services from the country towns of New South Wales to Sydney, as well as trains from Canberra, Brisbane and Melbourne. Perth is also served by trains connecting it to nearby country towns in the southern part of Western Australia.

The Ghan

The Ghan

This itinerary assumes you start from Darwin and head south, but it's also possible in the opposite direction. The Ghan takes 54 hours to travel 2,979 km (1,851 mi). The Ghan only operates between March and November, and does not operate between December and February as that is the rainy season in northern Australia.

• 1 达尔文 — 从达尔文出发 (0 公里)，3月至11月期间每周三上午10点有一班车。三天两夜的旅程全程约50 小时。车站距离达尔文市中心较远，车程约20 分钟。铁路的主要目的是货运，线路直达东湾港，不经过任何建成区。专用巴士往返于米切尔街的达尔文交通中心和火车站之间，需额外付费。出租车可以乘坐，但价格昂贵。没有定时巴士服务。

From Adelaide (2979 km), departures are on Sunday 12:15PM between March and November, with an additional train on Wednesdays at the 12:10PM between April and October.

• 2 凯瑟琳 (312 公里) — The Ghan号列车在此停留约五小时，提供可选的“哨站之旅”导览。从达尔文到凯瑟琳的老铁路在凯瑟琳市中心停靠，您可以参观火车站旧址。您可以沿着旧路线沿着凯瑟琳河的旧高架桥行走。然而，从旧站到新站大约有10 公里，所以如果您想参观凯瑟琳，这次旅程可能是您最好的选择。您不能在这里开始或结束您的旅程。

• 3 爱丽斯泉 (1420 公里) — 爱丽斯泉是The Ghan号列车曾经的北端终点站，也是沿途最大的城镇。列车在此停留约四小时，足够快速游览小镇。车站位于中央商务区边缘，步行几条街即可到达托德购物中心。许多人选择在此停留几天，游览乌鲁鲁（距离约400 公里），但即使不去乌鲁鲁，爱丽斯泉及其周边也有许多值得游玩的地方。爱丽斯泉拥有所有使之成为可能的服务。

• 4 马尔拉 — 马尔拉是一个为公路服务而建的中心，除了公路、铁路线和车站外，别无他物。任何到此一游的亮点是在The Ghan号列车经过时观看它，以及远处的沙漠景象。如果您实际上是在The Ghan号列车上，看到远处的沙漠，最好还是待在车上。只有北行的列车在此停靠，您可以在下车伸展双腿、观看日出，但不能在此开始或结束旅程。

• 5 曼古里 — 只有南行的列车在此停靠，并且仅在3月至11月期间的旅途中停靠，届时您可以下车伸展双腿，仰望星空，但不能在此开始或结束旅程。

• 6 阿德莱德 (2979 公里) — 线路的终点站，除非您换乘印度太平洋号继续前往珀斯或悉尼，或换乘Overland号列车前往墨尔本。最初称为Keswick车站，现已更名为阿德莱德公园绿地终点站，因为它位于阿德莱德市绿化带的外部。从阿德莱德公园绿地终点站到市区的阿德莱德火车站没有郊区铁路服务，最近的公交车站距离阿德莱德公园绿地终点站有15分钟步行路程。出租车到市区的费用较高，约20美元，您也可以叫Uber。车站附近没有真正的设施或景点。车站本身非常简陋，其唯一目的是服务每周到达几次的印度太平洋号、Ghan号和Overland号列车，唯一值得一提的设施是Journey Beyond的礼品店。您可以在这里取车，并在两条跨大陆服务之间换乘。

印度洋太平洋列车

The route of the Indian Pacific

Indian Pacific at Sydney Central

This route connects the Perth on the Indian Ocean with Sydney on the Pacific Ocean. The 4,352 km trip takes about three days and is distance-wise by far the longest in the Southern Hemisphere and one of the longest domestic rail journeys in the world. It's notable for the 478 km long section across the Nullarbor Plain, which is the longest straight railway stretch in the world. Unlike The Ghan, the Indian Pacific runs year-round. From Sydney, the train departs every Wednesday at 1:55PM, while from Perth, the train departs every Sunday at 10AM. Motorail service (taking your car onto the train) is only available between Perth and Adelaide.

• 1 珀斯 — 印度太平洋号旅程的终点或起点，珀斯是一个有用的终点站。列车印度太平洋号从东珀斯终点站出发，距离市中心的珀斯火车站仅三个站，位于珀斯市郊铁路网的米德兰、埃伦布鲁克和机场线上。这座城市迎合所有层次的旅客，北桥（市火车站以北的区域）有许多经济型背包客栈，市中心也有可满足高消费人群需求的酒店。
• 2 卡尔古利 — 只有东行的列车在此停靠。TransWA运营的Prospector号列车也每天提供卡尔古利和珀斯之间的日间服务，其速度是印度太平洋号列车的一半。卡尔古利火车站本身步行即可轻松到达市中心和住宿地点。东行列车的乘客可以在列车停靠期间在此参加城市观光，但西行乘客无法参加，因为列车在午夜经过。列车在珀斯和卡尔古利之间穿越风景如画的埃文谷。
• 3 劳林纳 — 只有西行的列车（前往珀斯）在此停靠，并且站台上会有现场音乐表演。夏季期间，晚餐在站台上供应，而一年中的其他时间，您将在餐车用餐。
• 4 库克 — 最初是为了服务铁路而建立的，如今已成为一个鬼镇。在这里，您可以在火车加油时在车站周围散步。
• 5 阿德莱德 — 南澳大利亚州的首府拥有许多景点和设施，并且是更多景点的门户。您可以选择在此开始或结束您的旅程，并提供前往悉尼或珀斯的乘客一日游。如果您选择前往巴罗萨谷的 excursion，您将在晚餐后在朗普兰斯下车，乘长途汽车前往阿德莱德，然后重新上车。
• 6 布罗肯希尔 — 只有西行的列车在此停靠。在列车停靠的几个小时内，这里提供观光旅游，长途汽车在列车到达时也同时到达。如果您选择不参加巴士旅游，火车站就位于市中心，您可以轻松步行并花时间浏览几家画廊的橱窗，然后在早餐时返回火车站。
• 7 维多利亚山 — 只有东行的列车（前往悉尼）在此停靠。乘客可以下车参加蓝山一日游，之后将乘坐NSW TrainLink的列车前往悉尼。
• 8 悉尼 — 橙色的悉尼中央车站位于中央商务区以南，比您预期的要小。除了是印度太平洋号列车的东部终点站外，它还是城市公共交通系统的主要枢纽之一。车站本身可以看到悬挂在天花板上的澳大利亚各州和地区旗帜，以及一个小型澳大利亚铁路历史展览。如果您刚乘火车抵达，走出主入口，直行约半小时，您将看到左手边的歌剧院和右手边的海港大桥。

注意安全

Though the journeys are long, and there are few chances of people just wandering in onto the train like in other countries, it is nevertheless wise to secure your room or items.

下一站

搭乘连接列车

The Overland (which is also a Journey Beyond train) operates between Adelaide and Melbourne. Unlike the Indian Pacific or The Ghan, The Overland is a day trip and takes 10 hours, and it also stops at more intermediate stations to pick up and let off passengers. As it is subsidised by the Victorian and South Australian state governments, fares tend to be cheaper than for Journey Beyond's other trains.

悉尼和珀斯都拥有连接各个乡村城镇的乡村铁路服务。悉尼发出的乡村铁路服务由NSW TrainLink运营，而珀斯发出的服务由TransWA运营。NSW TrainLink还运营着从悉尼出发经堪培拉前往墨尔本的墨尔本XPT号列车，以及从悉尼前往布里斯班的布里斯班XPT号列车。从布里斯班出发，可以轻松乘坐昆士兰铁路的郊区网络前往黄金海岸，昆士兰铁路还运营着长途列车昆士兰精神号，全程前往凯恩斯。

看看你错过了什么

Australia's pioneers had a grand vision for the railways, to cover a continent, and there are many places where this grand history can be seen. If you are catching the train one way, and travelling by car the other way, you can catch up with some of the interesting railway history you may have missed.

The Oodnadatta Track basically follows the original alignment of the Ghan before it was moved. There are sections of track still in place, and you can walk on large sections of the alignment from the road. The Oodnadatta station looks largely unchanged from when it saw its last train service 40 years ago.

Rail transport in Australia