穿越澳大利亚的火车之旅
- See Rail travel in Australia for general information about travelling by train in Australia
Australia can be crossed by two great railway journeys, The Ghan, which crosses north to south straight through the heart of Australia, from Darwin to Adelaide, and the Indian Pacific, which crosses east to west, from Sydney to Perth.
了解
[]| “ | The Indian Pacific she goes rollin' down the track. Five thousand miles to travel before she's there and back. | ” |
—Slim Dusty - "Indian Pacific" | ||
The Ghan 历史
[]The Ghan is named after the Afghan cameleers that transported goods to Australia's remote centre prior to the construction of the railway. The sand and heat made the trip entirely unsuited to horses. The cameleers overwhelmingly weren't from Afghanistan, they were just known as Afghans in the Australian vernacular.
The construction of the original Ghan from Adelaide started in 1878, with Oodnadatta reached in 1891 and, after a thirty-year break, Alice Springs in 1926. A separate but unconnected track from Darwin to Katherine in the north was also completed in the same year; this line was closed in 1976.
The original Ghan was twisty, narrow-gauge and built straight through many valleys prone to flash floods that washed away tracks and bridges. A decision was thus made to rebuild nearly all of the line in standard gauge, over 100 km to the west. The new line to Alice Springs opened in 1980, and the remaining 1,420 km (880 mi) section across the continent to Darwin opened in 2004.
Indian Pacific 历史
[]一条连接珀斯与澳大利亚主要东部城市的铁路，由联邦政府出资，是1901年说服西澳大利亚州加入联邦的“胡萝卜”之一。新铁路路线的勘测始于1907年，标准轨距的跨澳大利亚铁路于1912年开始修建，施工队伍从卡尔古利向东，从奥古斯塔港向西推进。修建这条铁路是一项艰巨的任务，因为纳拉伯平原的偏远和荒凉使得后勤保障异常困难，施工队伍需要远离最近的城镇数百英里。施工队伍必须住在沿铁轨的帐篷城里，他们依靠“茶和糖列车”运送水和补给，而建筑材料则由马匹和骆驼运输。此外，随着1914年第一次世界大战的爆发，采购劳动力和建筑材料变得更加困难。尽管如此，两支队伍最终于1917年10月17日在乌尔迪亚会合，标志着铁路线的完工；这里现在矗立着“铁轨连接纪念碑”，在乘坐印度太平洋号列车时可以看到。第一列全程运行的列车于1917年10月22日从奥古斯塔港出发前往卡尔古利。
在联邦成立之前，澳大利亚的铁路大多由各个殖民地各自修建，每个殖民地都采用了不同的轨距；新南威尔士州采用了标准轨距，维多利亚州采用了宽轨（1,600毫米），而昆士兰州、西澳大利亚州和塔斯马尼亚州则采用了窄轨（1,067毫米）。南澳大利亚州采用了两种轨距；在阿德莱德附近人口稠密的地区以及连接维多利亚州的线路采用了宽轨，而在偏远的内陆地区则采用了窄轨。在1917年铁路完工时，从悉尼前往珀斯的乘客需要绕道阿尔伯里、墨尔本、阿德莱德、加勒、特罗维、彼得伯勒、夸恩、奥古斯塔港和卡尔古利，并且在阿尔伯里、特罗维、奥古斯塔港和卡尔古利有换乘站。
随着新铁路线的完工，允许更直接的路线，行程时间逐渐缩短。1888年，伟大的矿业城镇布罗肯山通过窄轨铁路连接到（阿德莱德以北的）皮里港，但直到1927年才与来自悉尼的新南威尔士州标准轨距铁路网络连接。这次新的连接意味着乘客可以绕过墨尔本和阿德莱德，而是通过布罗肯山前往彼得伯勒，形成一条更直接的路线，布罗肯山在此作为换乘站。1937年，阿德莱德和皮里港之间建成了宽轨铁路连接，同年晚些时候，跨澳大利亚铁路从奥古斯塔港延伸到皮里港，导致夸恩被绕过，皮里港取代奥古斯塔港成为换乘站。您可以在布罗肯山的硫化物街铁路博物馆、彼得伯勒的蒸汽镇以及皮里港老火车站的博物馆中看到这段历史。皮里港的铁路线直接穿过城镇的主干道。
Subsequently, all of Australia's interstate railway lines were progressively converted to standard gauge. The Perth to Kalgoorlie segment was dual gauged to accommodate both standard and narrow gauge trains in 1968, while the segment from Broken Hill to Port Pirie was converted to standard gauge in 1970, allowing through services between Sydney and Perth for the first time. The first direct train departed Sydney for Perth on 23 February 1970, and it was named the Indian Pacific after the Indian and Pacific Oceans that it connected on each end of the route. The Adelaide-Port Pirie line was converted to standard gauge in 1982, albeit with the junction being shifted eastward from Port Pirie to to Crystal Brook, and the town centre of Port Pirie being bypassed. The Indian Pacific was re-routed in 1986 to include a stop at Adelaide on its way between Sydney and Perth.
Some towns along the line enjoyed several services a day during their heyday. The full Sydney to Perth service ran three times a week during its heyday, but today has bee reduced to just one train a week in each direction. Today, however, the irony is that railway buffs can see more of the rail history of the line and the towns along it travelling by car than by train. You can spend a good half day exploring the history of Peterborough and Port Pirie, but passenger trains no longer stop in either of them.
准备
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规划时间
[]These are not high-speed transcontinental trains. They are slow, laid back and luxurious trains that know how to take their time and let you enjoy the scenery. The trains are privately run by Journey Beyond. The current iteration of both routes was not built for passenger traffic, but rather to serve the very lucrative freight business.
省钱攻略
[]Any way you look at it, The Ghan and the Indian Pacific are expensive. The more economical "Red Service" has been discontinued, and both trains now cater exclusively to the luxury market with an all-sleeper configuration. The lowest class of service is "Gold Service", which has single cabins (shared shower), twin cabins (shower en suite) and includes all meals in the dedicated restaurant car. This will set you back at least $2,115 on The Ghan, and $2,475 on the Indian Pacific in the low season, increasing to $2,845 on the Ghan and $2,835 on the Indian Pacific during the peak season. Add another $2000-4000 on top, and you can get a double-sized "Platinum Service" cabin, which also gets you a quieter dedicated lounge on board, and complimentary transfers from and to your place of accommodation at the start and end of your journey respectively.
If you have a car in Australia, the value proposition can improve slightly, if you take your car with you. On the premium fare there are often deals available to take a car for $99 extra, which you can then offset against the price of renting a car at your destination, or if you drive one way, the prospect of the 3000 km drive home. Taking your car with you is only possible when travelling from Adelaide to Perth and vice versa on the Indian Pacific, and when travelling from Adelaide to Darwin and vice versa on The Ghan. You will need to call Journey Beyond to make arrangements in advance if you want to take your car with you.
You cannot get off and board a few days later at most intermediate stations, as these trains are meant to be luxury rail cruises rather than practical modes of transportation. The exceptions are Adelaide, which is allowed as an intermediate stopping point for passengers on the Indian Pacific, and Alice Springs, which is allowed as an intermediate stopping point for passengers on The Ghan. Both these intermediate stops have to be arranged in advance, and you will need to book each leg separately if you want to stop off.
抵达
[]Darwin and Adelaide can be reached by plane from all major Australian cities and a few international destinations like Singapore, Denpasar, or Kuala Lumpur. Darwin does not serve any other passenger trains, while other passenger trains in Adelaide are limited to a twice-weekly service from Melbourne and its suburban rail network.
Sydney and Perth are well-connected by air, each with services to all other Australian capital cities and international destinations. There are public train services from the country towns of New South Wales to Sydney, as well as trains from Canberra, Brisbane and Melbourne. Perth is also served by trains connecting it to nearby country towns in the southern part of Western Australia.
The Ghan
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This itinerary assumes you start from Darwin and head south, but it's also possible in the opposite direction. The Ghan takes 54 hours to travel 2,979 km (1,851 mi). The Ghan only operates between March and November, and does not operate between December and February as that is the rainy season in northern Australia.
- 达尔文 — 从达尔文出发 (0 公里)，每周三上午10点有一班车，运行时间为3月至11月。旅程为期三天两夜，全程约50 小时。车站距离达尔文市中心较远，车程约20 分钟。该铁路的主要目的是货运，线路直通东湾港口，不经过任何居民区。有专线巴士往返于米切尔街的达尔文交通中心和火车站之间，需额外收费。出租车也可以，但价格昂贵。没有常规巴士服务。
From Adelaide (2979 km), departures are on Sunday 12:15PM between March and November, with an additional train on Wednesdays at the 12:10PM between April and October.
- 凯瑟琳 (312 公里) — “骆驼队”号列车在此停留约五小时，提供可选的“短暂停留之旅”。从达尔文到凯瑟琳的旧铁路线停靠在凯瑟琳市中心，您可以参观火车站旧址。您可以沿着旧路线步行经过凯瑟琳河上的旧高架铁路桥。然而，从旧站到新站大约有10 公里，所以如果您想参观凯瑟琳，这次旅行可能是最好的选择。您不能在此开始或结束您的旅程。
- 爱丽斯泉 (1420 公里) — 爱丽斯泉是“骆驼队”号列车原来的北部终点站，也是沿途最大的城镇。火车在此停留约四小时，足够时间快速游览城镇。车站位于中央商务区的边缘，步行几条街即可到达托德购物中心。许多人选择在此停留几天，游览距离约400 公里外的乌鲁鲁，但即使您不前往“巨石”，爱丽斯泉及其周边也有很多值得游玩的地方。爱丽斯泉拥有所有必要服务，使这一切成为可能。
- 马尔拉 — 马尔拉是一个专门建造的高速公路服务中心，除了公路、铁路线和车站外，别无他物。任何一次到访的亮点是观看“骆驼队”号列车经过，以及远处的沙漠，如果您实际上是乘坐“骆驼队”号列车看着远处的沙漠，最好留在车上。只有北行的列车在此停靠，您可以下车伸展双腿，欣赏日出，但您不能在此开始或结束您的旅程。
- 曼古里 — 只有南行列车在此停靠，且仅在3月至11月期间运行的旅程中停靠。在此期间，您可以下车伸展双腿，仰望星空，但不能在此开始或结束您的旅程。
- 阿德莱德 (2979 公里) — 终点站— 除非您换乘“印度太平洋号”继续前往珀斯或悉尼，或换乘“奥弗兰德号”前往墨尔本。最初称为 Keswick 站，现已更名为阿德莱德公园绿地终点站，因为它位于阿德莱德市绿色地带的外围。从阿德莱德公园绿地终点站到市中心的阿德莱德火车站没有郊区火车服务，最近的巴士站距离阿德莱德公园绿地终点站有15分钟步行路程。到市区的出租车很贵，大约20美元，或者您可以叫 Uber。车站附近没有真正的设施或景点。车站本身非常简陋，其唯一目的是服务每周到达几次的“印度太平洋号”、“骆驼队”号和“奥弗兰德号”列车，唯一值得注意的便利设施是 Journey Beyond 的礼品店。您可以在此处下车，并在两列跨大陆列车之间换乘。
印度洋太平洋列车
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This route connects the Perth on the Indian Ocean with Sydney on the Pacific Ocean. The 4,352 km trip takes about three days and is distance-wise by far the longest in the Southern Hemisphere and one of the longest domestic rail journeys in the world. It's notable for the 478 km long section across the Nullarbor Plain, which is the longest straight railway stretch in the world. Unlike The Ghan, the Indian Pacific runs year-round. From Sydney, the train departs every Wednesday at 1:55PM, while from Perth, the train departs every Sunday at 10AM. Motorail service (taking your car onto the train) is only available between Perth and Adelaide.
- 珀斯 — 无论是“印度太平洋号”旅程的终点，还是出发点，珀斯都是一个方便的终点站。“印度太平洋号”列车从东珀斯终点站出发，距离市中心的珀斯火车站仅三个站，位于珀斯郊区铁路网的米德兰、埃伦布鲁克和机场线上。这座城市迎合了各种层次的旅客，从市中心以北的北桥区，到市中心迎合高消费者的酒店，都有经济型背包客栈。
- 卡尔古利 — 只有东行列车在此停靠。TransWA 的“开拓者号”列车也每天在卡尔古利和珀斯之间提供日间服务，但其速度是“印度太平洋号”列车的一半。卡尔古利火车站本身距离市中心和住宿地点仅几步之遥。东行列车上的乘客可以在火车停靠期间参加城镇游览，但对于西行列车乘客来说，这不可用，因为火车在午夜经过。火车在珀斯和卡尔古利之间经过风景如画的艾文山谷。
- 劳林纳
— 只有西行列车（开往珀斯）在此停靠，并且有一个现场音乐表演在站台上举行。夏季，晚餐在站台上供应，而一年中的其他时间，您将在火车上用餐。 - 库克 — 最初是为了服务铁路而建立的，如今已成为一个鬼镇，您可以在火车加油时在站台周围走动。
- 阿德莱德 — 南澳大利亚州的首府有许多景点和设施，也是更多景点的大门。您可以选择在此开始或结束您的旅程，并且为继续前往悉尼或珀斯的乘客提供游览活动。如果您选择巴罗萨谷游览，您将在晚餐后在朗普莱恩斯下车，然后乘长途汽车前往阿德莱德，之后再登火车。
- 布罗肯希尔 — 只有西行列车在此停靠。在火车停靠的几小时内提供游览活动，大巴将在火车到达时同时到达车站。如果您不选择巴士游览，火车站就在市中心，您可以轻松步行浏览几家画廊的橱窗，然后返回车站享用早餐。
- 维多利亚山 — 只有东行列车（开往悉尼）在此停靠。乘客可以下车参加蓝山的游览，之后您将乘坐 NSW TrainLink 的火车前往悉尼。
- 悉尼 — 橙色的悉尼中央车站位于中央商务区南部，比您想象的要小。除了是“印度太平洋号”的东部终点站外，它还是城市公共交通系统的主要枢纽之一。车站本身可以参观的景点包括挂在天花板上的澳大利亚各州和地区国旗以及一个小型的澳大利亚铁路历史展览。如果您刚乘火车抵达，从主入口出去，向前直走大约半小时，您会看到右侧的歌剧院和左侧的港湾大桥。
注意安全
[]Though the journeys are long, and there are few chances of people just wandering in onto the train like in other countries, it is nevertheless wise to secure your room or items.
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[]搭乘连接列车
[]The Overland (which is also a Journey Beyond train) operates between Adelaide and Melbourne. Unlike the Indian Pacific or The Ghan, The Overland is a day trip and takes 10 hours, and it also stops at more intermediate stations to pick up and let off passengers. As it is subsidised by the Victorian and South Australian state governments, fares tend to be cheaper than for Journey Beyond's other trains.
悉尼和珀斯都提供连接各个乡村城镇的乡村铁路服务。悉尼的乡村铁路服务由NSW TrainLink运营，而珀斯的乡村铁路服务由TransWA运营。NSW TrainLink 还运营从悉尼经堪培拉前往墨尔本的墨尔本 XPT，以及从悉尼前往布里斯班的布里斯班 XPT。从布里斯班，您可以在Queensland Rail的郊区网络轻松抵达黄金海岸，它还运营长途列车昆士兰精神号一直到凯恩斯。
看看你错过了什么
[]Australia's pioneers had a grand vision for the railways, to cover a continent, and there are many places where this grand history can be seen. If you are catching the train one way, and travelling by car the other way, you can catch up with some of the interesting railway history you may have missed.
The Oodnadatta Track basically follows the original alignment of the Ghan before it was moved. There are sections of track still in place, and you can walk on large sections of the alignment from the road. The Oodnadatta station looks largely unchanged from when it saw its last train service 40 years ago.
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